had BUTLER PERF. do my engine back in jan.since then i have been driving it,about a week ago i noticed a little oil on my garage floor so i jacked it up and took of the converter cover and found some oil laying In the bottom of the cover It looks like the oil is coming from eather the rear pan or the rear main.?I only have about 300 miles on the engine and they did put a viton seal in the rear main.If it is the rear main what all is intailed on changing the seal. and trust me I wont be doing it, I will take it to a shop that i know and have it replaced at butlers expense.!
Have you called Butler about your problem yet? If they assembled the engine for you and shipped it complete, they may repair it for you at no charge except for the shipping. Give David or Jim a call and see what they are willing to do.
They did some machine work for me and I assembled the engine. I encountered a problem that we both could have contributed to. I was polite and waited to hear from my local machine shop as to the depth of my problem. David worked with me and helped me get the issue resolved as well as helping with replacement parts.
ok,today I drove the car about 15 miles to a friends garage[gas station]we put it up on the hoist and remove the tork con. cover.there was just a little bit of oil laying in the bottom.but there was also some right up above by the side of the pan gasket and also a little under the oil adapter.we cleaned off all the oil and ran it up on the hoist for about 10 minutes reving up and so forth,shut it off and there was no sign of any leaks at all,if it was the rear main wouldnt It have dripped somthing when we where running it.?Im very stumped.
Not nessesaraly. The engine may have to be put under a load in order to torque the crankshaft.
The seal can be done without yanking the crank. It takes some doing, but with the main cap removed. The technique involves fishing the seal out on end and inserting the new seal from the other side, using the new seal as a "ram" to push the old one out.
Imagine that! Some hot shot engine bulider installing a leaking rear main seal. But wtf would expect from a typical mechanic?
And me, certainly not a hot shot engine builder still having a bone dry rear main seal after 18 years and 130k miles. (Maybe I'll set it up on stands, weasel underneath with the camera, and take a picture of the amount of grime after 2 decades of abusive useage.)
If Butler installed a BOP neoprene seal, it will not be that easy to remove. If Yellowtail can get all the old seal removed, then they can go back to the rope style seal without removing the engine as you described.
It's too bad they don't make the old style rope seal like they used to. You probably have the old style with asbestos in it. They had a pretty long service life. The new rope seals are manufactured differently and don't seem to have the life expectancy.
I've replaced the rear seal on a Chrysler using the method Amervo describes. The Pontiac shop manual explains the two part neoprene seal for repairs also with the same procedure. Is the BOP seal a different type of seal that is more difficult? The chrysler one I replaced years ago was two pieces. With the rear cap removed, it just slips 180 degrees around the crank and it's out. The chiltons for that vehicle said to run a screw into the end of the seal to give something to pull on. It wasn't necessary.
Is the BOP seal different from this?
I've had two vehicles delivered new with the rope style seal weaping. The first was a 68 Firebird. I wouldn't recommend the rope piece for repairs. I doubt it's available anyway.
