I am attempting to find correct replacement door jamb switches for my '69.
The LH side is a two terminal, and the RH side is a single terminal.
The problem I am having is that the replacement switches I received from Ames and Classic are both incorrect, or at least I believe they are.
The switches I received in replacement have all had shafts that were longer than the original. Of course, I am assuming that the switches in my car are indeed "original". The "original" switches I took of my car could have been replaced in the past with the wrong part, but I wouldn't know.
I can post some pictures if my description does not make sense.
Does anyone have some pictures of the correct door jamb switches for a '69, or anythign that might help me out?
Thomas, can you put a spacer behind the door jamb to adjust the length of the shaft? I have a 67 and can adjust how far the switch sticks out. Maybe use two thin nuts: one to set the shaft length and the second to lock the first in place.
Most of the Camaro (Rick's for sure) catalog suppliers sell the correct one and two prong switches. Don't worry about the shaft being too long. As soon as you shut the door, the shaft will "adjust" to the length needed for your particular car.
Speaking of door switches the other night I took the 69 out for a little drive to ease some tensions after a long week of work. While driving about 30 mph I hit a little bump and the dome light came on. I messed with both doors to make sure they were shut and even played with the headlight switch to no avail.....obviously a short somewhere, but where to start....
Try a little shot of PB Blaster or WD40 to make sure the plungers pop all the way out when the door is open, and plunge them a few times.
The door switches are probably not bad. If you feel like pulling your kick panels you can figure out which one is shorting, and possibly even find where. Just reach in and find the harness, and jiggle the wires to see which one causes the dome light to go back off. Doors shut and bulb back in, naturally...
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
If anyone has a problem with the switches activating the light, try shooting your favorite weasle piss on them, depress them, then let them snap back, rather then extend slowly. Often, this will clean out the crud and make them work.
Actually, the problem is not with the switch NOT working it has to do with the light NOT going OFF. It's most likely the headlight switch in the dash or a short in one of the wires going to the door switches.
I bought the LH switch from Ames and also had the same problem. I Put the "threaded nut" in a vice and used a rubber mallet to slide the shaft in further to where the origonal switch was positioned. After figuring that out I think I guess I could have installed it and shut the door. I can try give you a better explanation if needed. I was a little dissappointed at spending $6.50 on a switch you have to work on. If their was directions telling you that is was self adjusting it would be a different story.
One other thing. When I adjusted the switch with the rubber mallet I held it closed to prevent the button from hammering into the shaft and mushrooming the end of the shaft. The shaft moved without much effort
I had a similar problem with my '67 'vert. I would hit a bump and the lights would come on. It wound up being a poor ground on my driver's side interior light socket. Try pulling the sockets and cleaning them and brackets they snap into. This fixed the problem for me.
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