Looking to install a convertible top boot for my 69. As I have researched some and they do seem to be a pain to install.. however my question is how much to they tear up the trim that they clip to? Also any chance of damaging the paint? Finally are they worth the effort?
The boots dress up the car in a big way. However, they really are a pain in the butt to install and remove. You need to be REALLY careful. The clips do not harm the chrome, but they do have sharp edges that can scratch the paint and slice up your hands / fingers from time to time. (ask me how I know)
The trick to install I use is to fold the boot in half, back on itself and snap the clips one at a time from the middle of the car towards the outside. Note that the correct way to install the clips is hook the short (hooked) side over the rear of the chrome, then snap down the longer lipped end of each clip (the side towards the inside of the car). When removing, do the opposite. Lift the long end up.
To do all of this well, I reach my hand -arm under the boot and grab each clip from the underside. (thus the hand / arm cuts) be careful!.
Lastly, pull the boot snug from each end, snap the snaps to the interior, and push the leading edge down under the front of the top between the folded top and the back of the back seat. Note that there is nothing to hold or snap that leading edge to other than tucking it between the top and the seat.
These tops do not stay tucked during a strong cross wind. I have had the unfortunate 'parachute' event more than a few times when hit by a burst of strong cross wind.
In general, it is not good to leave the top down for more than a couple of days. Putting it up and locking it in place keeps it well stretched. That is the dilemma between boot install and keeping the top stretched. By the time I get the boot on and looking good, I hate to remove it each time to put the top back up. For my daily driver, I rarely put the boot on. For my cars in shows, I always put the boot on.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I have put the boot on mine hundreds of times and it takes only about 5-10 minutes. The neat look is worth it. The most important step is lowering the top until it is about a foot from stored in the well, closing the latch hooks, tucking in the top fold so that it misses the seat back, and then lowering it fully. Then tuck the boot front flap down behind the rear seat. Yes, you have to be careful not to scratch the paint with the clips. I have a couple minor scuffs where I wasn't careful enough. If you start securing the boot from the front with the snaps then working from each end with the boot clips until all have been closed. I have to replace a couple clips on my original boot every year as they get brittle and break. I have never had the trim loosen but it has never been off the car.
Well, thanks for all the info. After I get the sample for the blue boot and its good\close to my interior I will give it a shot. My biggest concern is just keeping the paint and trim unmolested. If I can manage that I will use it. More than likely it would just be for shows and certain days anyway as the top will be up to keep it straight and in good condition. The ones I have seen look good with boot. Since this is my first vert its a new deal for me.
For me, if the top is down, the boot is on. It has to be. I have the front flap of the boot sandwidged between the seat and the seatback support. I've had it that way for years now since a couple of "parachute" incidents. The top can stay down for a few weeks at a time. When it does go up I just loosen the clips and snaps, flip the boot over the rear seat, raise the top and then flip the boot back into the well. The biggest thing in getting the boot to fit nicely is to make sure that when the top is going down that there are no "pinch points" that could prevent the top from going down all the way. This also prevents the top itself from pinch damage. Once the top is where it should be I flip the boot over it and start from one side and work my way around to the other. Clips as mentioned work best by pulling outer edge over the chrome trim and push down on it till it clicks over the inside. The car was painted in '02 and No damage from clips yet. It does take a little time to get everything just right going down but worth it to me in the long run. Going up is quick and easy.
For me, if the top is down, the boot is on. It has to be. I have the front flap of the boot sandwidged between the seat and the seatback support. I've had it that way for years now since a couple of "parachute" incidents. The top can stay down for a few weeks at a time. When it does go up I just loosen the clips and snaps, flip the boot over the rear seat, raise the top and then flip the boot back into the well. The biggest thing in getting the boot to fit nicely is to make sure that when the top is going down that there are no "pinch points" that could prevent the top from going down all the way. This also prevents the top itself from pinch damage. Once the top is where it should be I flip the boot over it and start from one side and work my way around to the other. Clips as mentioned work best by pulling outer edge over the chrome trim and push down on it till it clicks over the inside. The car was painted in '02 and No damage from clips yet. It does take a little time to get everything just right going down but worth it to me in the long run. Going up is quick and easy.
very similar to what I did w mine....top 99 % of the time down...but when I installed my boot...I always started in center at rear worked forward both sides...found it to work best
Never had the "parachute" effect with my original boot (48 years of service), but after replacing it two years ago, the aftermarket version has pulled free on several occasions. I am considering adding a Velcro strip this year along the lower lip to hold it in place. What do you think - good idea?
Would probably work. The boot I had the parachute effect with is also original to the car. Still tight, fits well. Jut not enough pressure behind back seat to hold it down in a good cross wind. But I'd hate to see a strip of velcro stuck to the seat frame when the boot is not on.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Never had the "parachute" effect with my original boot (48 years of service), but after replacing it two years ago, the aftermarket version has pulled free on several occasions. I am considering adding a Velcro strip this year along the lower lip to hold it in place. What do you think - good idea?
I always tucked mine in behind rear seat back rest...lifted top up slightly, pushed front in...never parachuted