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#318119 07/19/18 10:16 AM
Joined: Jul 2015
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Help please!! Haha...

67 Firebird, fuel gauge reads past full. Original gauge, new sending unit. I know that's usually a ground issue, I checked all my grounds, seem to be fine, I even grounded the gauge cluster with a wire as a secondary ground. Here's the weird part, when I put the parking brake on, the gauge goes to empty..

Anyone??

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The sending unit should have a ground connected to fuel tank strap bracket under car and 12 v connected to it. Have you checked them? Have you Bench tested your sending unit?

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Originally Posted by HaroldB
The sending unit should have a ground connected to fuel tank strap bracket under car and 12 v connected to it. Have you checked them? Have you Bench tested your sending unit?


The sending unit is grounded to the fuel tank strap bracket. 12v connected to the sending unit? I have not bench checked the sending unit.

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I would bench test the sending unit, it is probably not working. That would be my next step.

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Here are a few tips:.

If the gauge reads full all the time then some of the possible problems are:
•A poor or broken connection between the sender and the gauge
•A broken resistance wire in the sender sending a faulty signal
•The tank is not grounded to the chassis which means the sender may not be grounded either.

To figure out what the problem is you should first remove the wire from the terminal on the sender and ground it directly to your vehicle’s chassis. If the gauge now reads empty then the sender or the tank are not grounded properly or it could just be that the sender has gone bad.

If this does not produce results, ground a test lead and and touch it to the terminal on the back of the gauge. It is often marked with a red tag. If the gauge now goes to empty then you know that the wire between the sender and the dash gauge is loose or broken and needs to be replaced.

One final test you can run is to remove the sender from the tank and connect it to an ohmmeter. One lead goes to the sender terminal and the other connects to the sender housing. Once you have it hooked up simply move the float arm and check the resistance measured by the meter. It should vary from 0 to 30 ohms most likely or at whatever range your sender unit has. As long as the ohms are changing you know it isn’t the sender that has gone bad.

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Originally Posted by ramair68
Here are a few tips:.

If the gauge reads full all the time then some of the possible problems are:
•A poor or broken connection between the sender and the gauge
•A broken resistance wire in the sender sending a faulty signal
•The tank is not grounded to the chassis which means the sender may not be grounded either.

To figure out what the problem is you should first remove the wire from the terminal on the sender and ground it directly to your vehicle’s chassis. If the gauge now reads empty then the sender or the tank are not grounded properly or it could just be that the sender has gone bad.

If this does not produce results, ground a test lead and and touch it to the terminal on the back of the gauge. It is often marked with a red tag. If the gauge now goes to empty then you know that the wire between the sender and the dash gauge is loose or broken and needs to be replaced.

One final test you can run is to remove the sender from the tank and connect it to an ohmmeter. One lead goes to the sender terminal and the other connects to the sender housing. Once you have it hooked up simply move the float arm and check the resistance measured by the meter. It should vary from 0 to 30 ohms most likely or at whatever range your sender unit has. As long as the ohms are changing you know it isn’t the sender that has gone bad.



Thank you!!! I will get on these tests today!


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