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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 13
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Hello,
Curious what everyone's experience has been with the available filler panels on the market... As shown in the attached pic, I purchased part# FK381 from AMES, which is not quite what I expected. The rep at AMES made it sound like the rounded metal piece (at bottom inside of glass, i forget the proper name!) was attached to this panel, which of course it is not. Is a filler panel available that includes this piece? or does it need to be cutoff the old and welded back on the new panel?
Also, the new filler panel bends do not seem very sharp compared to the OEM metal, all the edges almost seem too rounded.
Any thoughts? thank you!
Filler Panel
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
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In regards to aftermarket panel contour crispness, my experience with then aftermarket steel for first generation Mustangs is they do not match the originals very well.
1969 350 Firebird that needs a lot of help.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,015
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Yep you have to cut and fit in the interior piece to the filler panel also you will need to rework the panel slightly to fit the quarters.. I would suggest attaching the small interior corners to the round interior panel to keep it in place inorder get a good alignment prior to welding it to the filler. to get the shape you need on the filler panel edges, it will need dolling.. oh the corners were originally brazed so the rounded corners were covered in brass....have fun... :0
Last edited by ho4spdtogo; 09/24/18 12:45 PM.
mark
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 13
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Update... purchased the correct filler panel with with lower molding from NPD. The Taiwan part was a little thinner, but fit nicely. Welded in a couple of side channels and is looking good!
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,394 Likes: 2
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,394 Likes: 2 |
Not sure if your putting a vinyl top back on or not. But make sure your trim fits the window channel before finishing body work. My car had a vinyl top and I did not put one back on and the trim fit real bad up in the top corners. I bought my tulip panel from NPD also and it fit pretty good. I went with the convertible look at welded mine solid.
Last edited by Robert; 10/09/18 02:25 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,337 Likes: 3
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,337 Likes: 3 |
LeeKLM, just noticed you are another MN member. Where are you located? I am west of town, near Albertville.
Also, I think there may be one more hole needed in your new panel on each side to attach the vinyl top moulding. (if going that way like Robert said)
And welcome to FGF!
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold  1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
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Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the notes. Vinyl top is going back on next week. I needed to get headliner in prior to roll cage, and same guy is doing both sides of the roof. It will look a little odd having a new top and old body- but that is ok for now, and it wont leak! I do have holes marked out for the lower trim, just not done yet...
Btw, I am near Rogers, so we are neighbors! Am headed to O'Reilly in Buffalo this week for some 2 part primer and a single stage paint for the filler panel. If I finish the body some day, am likely going with plumb crazy purple. My first car was a plumb crazy Demon with black vinyl top, and always loved that color combo!]
Last edited by LeeKLM; 10/10/18 12:33 PM.
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