Very nice. Shame to hide them under the car, now - eh?
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I always install the bushings and ball joints before I paint them, then mask off the stuff I don't want painted. This way you don't mess up the paint when installing the bushings and ball joints. Unless you are having them powder coated and they have to be baked. Here are a couple of pics of my son's 72 Nova I am doing now
I always install the bushings and ball joints before I paint them, then mask off the stuff I don't want painted. This way you don't mess up the paint when installing the bushings and ball joints. Unless you are having them powder coated and they have to be baked. Here are a couple of pics of my son's 72 Nova I am doing now
Nice job! The paint looks great. How did you do the non-painted parts, like the sway bar?
I epoxy primed and top coated my parts with chassis black. Turned out great but then I found some better urethane paint. It goes on awesome and hard as nails.
Some of my parts that I epoxy primed cracked and chipped off in some areas. I think my son-in-law may have spray it too thick in some areas. It happens in areas where the surface is not flat. Like in a dip. Any ideas/comments as to what we could be doing wrong?
wow thats a lot of work. What is the reason for the subframe being on the jig?
The tubing holding the sub frame off the table is cut to the length published for first gen body manual, I was checking the frame to see if it was bent/wracked or twisted. I discovered that it did have 1/4" twist, so I welded tubes to frame,table together & used a 10 ton jack to jack it back to speck. I also welded, ground & sanded all the sub-frame seams (to help stiffen) before removing from table. While at it I also fabricated to mount areas.
I always install the bushings and ball joints before I paint them, then mask off the stuff I don't want painted. This way you don't mess up the paint when installing the bushings and ball joints. Unless you are having them powder coated and they have to be baked. Here are a couple of pics of my son's 72 Nova I am doing now
Nice job! The paint looks great. How did you do the non-painted parts, like the sway bar?
I epoxy primed and top coated my parts with chassis black. Turned out great but then I found some better urethane paint. It goes on awesome and hard as nails.
Some of my parts that I epoxy primed cracked and chipped off in some areas. I think my son-in-law may have spray it too thick in some areas. It happens in areas where the surface is not flat. Like in a dip. Any ideas/comments as to what we could be doing wrong?
I top coated my epoxy (Kircher) with Excel hot rod satin, that stuff lays down so nice. I blasted all my parts, epoxy then the Urethane , the sway bar may crack from flexing... I will see.
The pic of the bottom of the bird was when the epoxy was still wet, that will get painted with the Urethane satin black as well later. Regards to your paint cracking, perhaps it was to thick... gee I don't know.
I always install the bushings and ball joints before I paint them, then mask off the stuff I don't want painted. This way you don't mess up the paint when installing the bushings and ball joints. Unless you are having them powder coated and they have to be baked. Here are a couple of pics of my son's 72 Nova I am doing now
Nice job! The paint looks great. How did you do the non-painted parts, like the sway bar?
I epoxy primed and top coated my parts with chassis black. Turned out great but then I found some better urethane paint. It goes on awesome and hard as nails.
Some of my parts that I epoxy primed cracked and chipped off in some areas. I think my son-in-law may have spray it too thick in some areas. It happens in areas where the surface is not flat. Like in a dip. Any ideas/comments as to what we could be doing wrong?
I use this paint, it holds up very well. I used it on the extensions I made for my lift, with me driving cars and trucks on it.
I just installed body bushings. I started out with using the regular rubber reproduction bushings and I thought that was going to be just fine. However, After everything was torqued properly, I had float in the rubber bushings and it seems all the compression was on one side. I ended up popping the compressed bushing side completely off the mount when the body moved and came off of my lift when I was installing a coil spring. It was at that point I decided to go with Detroit Speed's solid (coated) aluminum body bushings. It was the right decision. Now it's mounted and frame is solid to the body. It could be the reproduction mounts that I used, but something was not right about it, so I fixed it with solid mounts.
Stock bushings. I had a front and rear HI Perf sway bars installed with poly(think that's what you call them bushings. It was a waste of time as the contraption just cracked up my front and rear frames. These cars are straight line dragsters. If you want to F1 race with them you need to do more than just sway bars, start with new complete frame.
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
I just installed body bushings. I started out with using the regular rubber reproduction bushings and I thought that was going to be just fine. However, After everything was torqued properly, I had float in the rubber bushings and it seems all the compression was on one side. I ended up popping the compressed bushing side completely off the mount when the body moved and came off of my lift when I was installing a coil spring. It was at that point I decided to go with Detroit Speed's solid (coated) aluminum body bushings. It was the right decision. Now it's mounted and frame is solid to the body. It could be the reproduction mounts that I used, but something was not right about it, so I fixed it with solid mounts.
