I am trying to make final clutch adjustment. when i installed the transmission I used and an adjustable clutch fork mount. Currently I have the clutch rod adjusted all the way to the end and it wont quite disengage. I can see the adjustment on the bell housing that there is an allen bolt head to drive the pivot point inward. Is this all I need to do to get more throw on the clutch fork and be able to reduce the length of the clutch rod?

The pivot ball in the bell housing isn’t for adjustment. You need to assemble the right combination of throw out bearing and rods to get it to work properly. That might require some trial and error.

The stock clutch fork ball is not adjustable but there are aftermarket adjustable ones, usually used with Lakewood type bell housings. I put one in my bellhousing, seems to me it had a sleeve that threaded into the housing and the ball stud screws into that and has a lock nut. Wouldn't you want to make it longer. not shorter, so the rod would have More effect? The stock clutch arm pivot ball is threaded into the bellhousing from the transmission side with an allen wrench and is non adjustable. Most of the adjustable ones are threaded in with a screwdriver slot But there may be one with a hex. The sleeve is threaded internal and external, the ball stud is threaded into the sleeve and held in place with a locknut.

If you have the adjustment rod all the way out and the clutch is not releasing something is out of wack. Maybe the wrong release bearing, there is a tall and short one. Or the wrong adjustment rod? Maybe it's not the clutch at all but the input shaft binding on the bearing in the end of the crank.I had to use offset bellhousing dowels to center my transmission in the register.

That is pretty cool.

I had to use one of those because my flywheel had been ground one to may times over a 1/16 th of an inch .

Using the wrong clutch fork causes a lot of issues with people not getting the clutch to release. It has to have the correct radius in the bend to get the throw correct.

Between the different throwout bearings, clutch forks, and linkage rods it’s a crapshoot. Somehow I lucked out and mine works. I think I have the wrong linkage rods.

As mentioned earlier, the throughout is a common oversight many folks make. The original pressure plates are two different types. High diaphragm and low. The higher being the higher pressure or higher performance applications, which require the shorter throughout bearing. If you use the shorter bearing on the low diaphragm pressure plate you don’t have enough travel, if you use the longer one on the high diaphragm the clutch won’t engage.

There may be some other considerations as well. I bought what was supposed to be a PP for an 11" GTO clutch but the thing was too deep for the flywheel bolt pocket. Tried new bolts with thinner heads. Eventually ad to buy a PP with a different design. Called the maker and the tech guy said they had never had anybody else have issues( I find that hard to believe) but he worked with me till we found what worked.