went out to start the 68 bird, found the key in the acc position-dead battery. Hooked up jumpers-nothing not even a headlight. Charged battery didn't expect anything and that's what I got. Not sure where to start looking, but something must be fried... Any ideas??

can you post pictures of your battery cable ends at the battery ?

is your battery charging up with the charger ?? possible dead cell .... Im leanin towards cable ends at the battery

I have had aftermarket battery ends that corrode inside the clamp ... wear glasses when cleaning them ,,,

.https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-battery-terminals-top-post-coated-2-pack-ac175-a1501012/6283136-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=6283136-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=online&store_code=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBpPVk3wYe51KjSJPHCMpQfek0Ee-YFxduHBwKBlddfgR6dfbaJpsAcaArVxEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

have you cleaned the connections ?

whats the date on your battery ...??

how long was the key on accessory ?

being you have no lites while the battery is on the charger .... I would bet a barley pop on the cable ends at the battery being dirty/oxidized ...

Scott

Battery charged right back up, about 3 months old. All connections have been checked. Not sure how long car sat at least a few weeks. Absolutely no power to anything in car. Will have to start at selinoid and go from there.........

see if you have power at the rear of the alternator

first........ that gets power to and from the solenoid ...

this is your buddy ,,,,,,, https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html

What solenoid would that be?

Good idea checking the voltage at the + post on the alternator, If you have a fully charged battery and the cable ends are clean and tight, you should also have battery voltage at the alternator. The wire at the BAT + post on the alternator runs to the main splice and from there to the junction block on the rad support and then via a fusible link to the positive post of the battery. If there's no power at the alternator BAT + post then check the rad support junction block and the wire that goes from it to the battery.If there's juice there, follow the red wire from the junction block all the way to the main splice and the alternator. Would have to be a break or and opening in the circuit somewhere in that line.

If you do have power at the battery and the alternator BAT+ post and no power anywhere else, you'll have to check the wires that feed the main power up circuit for the rest of the car. Power runs from the alternator,red wire, to the main splice and from the main splice, red wire, to the horn relay. There's a black fusible link that goes from the horn relay, it connects to a red wire that goes to the firewall junction blocks. Perhaps having the key on for a few weeks straight also had an accessory on for a few weeks and that, over time, heated up a fusible link which burned and left the system without power.

Also check your battery negative cable at the battery and where it bolts to the block, could have sintered up and stopped current flow.