What is the correct (factory) size of a booster for drum brakes?? I'm thinking about adding PB to my car and I see that 11" and 9" boosters are available.
I'm trying to keep the car as close to original looking as I can.
Mike, I installed the SSBC booster and master cylinder from CI in my '68. Very happy with the results. Make sure you check your booster for leaks before you install it.(don't ask me how I know this...) :rolleyes:
Is the booster the same for drum or disc? I installed disc brakes from a 70 Chevelle- (probably the only modification I'll keep). I'd like to get a correct appearing booster, but don't want to spend the bucks if I have to replace it, if and when I put the drums back.
They look the same to me, but i think are slightly different internally.
67-8 show a different front housing # than 69, but the housing doesnt differentiate between drum and disc. The internal parts have some different part#s between drum and disc which might effect amount of boost and/or retraction rate... just a guess.
now that i recall, I think Hammered (John) is right about the pin. I bought the parts from GM Sports in San Jose, and I think they told me I had to use the Chevelle booster because of the pin length. better not to mess with it. As much as I want to go back to original, I remember what is was like to drive 4 wheel drums, and I don't want to go back to that!
Yes, always check the pin vs the master cylinder pushrod hole. 67 Pontiacs got a long pin with a deep master cylinder hole, 68+ got a short pin and shallow master hole. Chevrolet kept the long pin until 1970 for the F&A bodies. this goes for drum and disc. parts have been mixed over the years, and i'm sure there were factory exceptions too, so always check the master pushrod hole depth vs pushrod length. this goes with manual brakes too. 68+ pontiacs used a short pushrod with retainer, chevy Fbody kept the long pushrod w/o retainer until 1970.
hmmmmmm, so if I got an original 1968 Firebird disc brake booster, (or have my drum brake booster rebuilt and recoated) and I got an original 1968 Firebird disc brake master cylinder (instead of chevy) I should be ok, right? thanks for all the great info
ps- to Mike- both my boosters are 11",which is stock, but keep in mind that the edge of the 11" booster comes within about a hair's width of your 400 valve covers. Not a big problem, just makes it hard to work on.
I drive the 68 convertible with drums, no booster It´s very heavy. Do you suggest that 11" booster from chevelle -68 and until 1970 will fit , just bolt on. Or am I misunderstanding? In Sweden it’s pretty hard to find used parts for American classic muscle cars and it will “ open new doors” when it comes to hunting car parts. if it´s possible do use chevell boosters Tommy
Tommy Firebird 68 conv 350 HO Cougar 70 conv 351 Cl 4V It’s only dead fishes swimming with the stream!
I'n not sure which cars interchange with which, but in general many GM parts are interchangeable. I bought the whole setup- spindles, rotors, calipers, booster, proportion valve, and master cylinder together, so they all matched each other, and they all bolted up fine to my bird. I bought the setup from GM Sports Salvage in San Jose, California, and they did know what would fit what. I forget the years, but I think they said both A-bodies and X-body brake systems could work. I'm sure they could advise you, and if you don't want to buy from them you shouldn't have a problem finding a booster once you know what will fit. However, keep in mind what Scott said about the pins, if you are going to mix a chevy booster with a firebird master cylinder. Its probably best to get them as a matched set if possible.
I think most of the repro boosters come with both pins now. The short pin will be about flush with the face of the booster while the long pin will protrude about 1/2" or so.