I'm looking to upgrade my 1968 Coupe 350 to front power disc brakes. I would prefer to get a full blown kit with everything from brakes, spindles, master cylinder, etc...I'm seeing a lot of options out there. I see some kits on Firebird Central in the $600 range and some up in the $1200 range and a couple in between. Not using on track or racing just a little fun driving around town. Thanks...

Been a long long time since I did mine, but as I recall my Baer brake system was pretty complete. They work great.

One piece of advice, if you're upgrading (even if just a cruiser), at least get dual piston calipers (as opposed to the single piston). Single piston are not much of an upgrade over drums (will reduce fade, but not much additional braking power otherwise). Dual piston (or more) will provide much more effective braking and better pedal feel even if using the same rotor size.

I know this is probably an unpopular opinion these days but as someone that drove front drum brake cars in my youth and the owner of a 68 convertible 350 auto front drum cruiser now I would suggest that by your description of your driving expectations and since you just bought this car to try it out first and see if it fits your driving style, you just might save yourself a lot of time and money. When I was a younger more aggressive driver I needed and expected much more from my engine handling and brakes in my firebirds then I do now. My expectations now are to have a nice top down cruiser that runs cool and on pump gas and is mechanically solid and works as it should. The only caveat is if you have manual and not power drums. if you don't have power I would add it as you will need it anyways if you go disc in the future. If in good mechanical condition drum brakes work just fine in a casual cruiser. I know to younger people that did not drive front drum cars back in the day this probably sounds unbelievable but you have nothing to lose and can just ad disc in the next off season if they don't fit your driving style.

The drum brakes, even in fine working condition, leave a lot to be desired. It’s not so much how you drive as those around you.
I put Wilwood disc brakes on my ‘68. They work great. That said, big brakes meant a wheel & tire change. Before you know it, I’m changing everything on the car. I love the end result but it’s not for everyone.
Barnbird offers some sage advice. Do your research and understand what modifications you wish to do. Stops scope creep. IMO there are three things that really changed my car’s personality. Modern tires, good brakes and a fat front sway bar. All the other modifications added to the package but bang for the buck are those three.

Stock single pistons are awesome and a huge improvement over drums. Inline tube or the right stuff sells the stock 69 setup. It’s a pretty straightforward job

Thanks everyone. I should have been more clear in that keeping stock was not an option. I got the car as a project vehicle. The drums/brakes are in bad condition and the manual master cylinder was even worse. Not workable condition. I figure if I have to spend the money anyway I might as well make the jump to Power Disc.

You will not regret going with power disc brakes.

I have factory disc on front with added power booster- excellent stopping power. Even just adding a booster to drum brakes makes a big difference.

^what he said.

My ‘68 had the manual single piston front disks when I bought it. I added the the power booster and master cylinder from SSBC back in 2004. After my engine build, I only make 11 inches of vacuum with my cam, but the booster does make a considerable difference. I actually just replaced the booster and master cylinder this past Monday. A amazing how absolutely nothing is a “bolt in” for our old cars. I had to shorten the master cylinder rod(?) as the long rod was 1/4” too long, and the short rod was way to short. Also had to cut the the brake pedal rod since the pedal was about an 1-1/2 too high. Be prepared to do some modifications.

When I push the brake pedal, the car stops. Every time. If I push the pedal hard enough, the car screeches to a stop. Not sure how much more stopping power is required.

Sorry to hijack your thread but I was hoping maybe someone could give me some advice. I’ve got a 68 convertible that I’m converting to disc brakes as well but the car has stock 14 inch wheels (non-Rally). I’ve been told that 14 inch wheels won’t work with disc brakes. I was thinking of getting the 15 inch rally wheels anyway but I didn’t know whether it was necessary to get the Rally wheels with backspacing or not. If I can’t get a definitive answer I’m probably going to go ahead and get the Backspaced wheels because I don’t think there’s any harm in getting the backspacing but I could be wrong. Any advice would be appreciated

If you want to drive down you can try your rims on my 67 with the single piston setup (69 style).

If original 68 code JC ralleys they fit fine with the original 69 single piston setups.

Thanks, I would be buying “new” Rally’s, my current wheels are just the stock 14’s with hubcaps.

Thanks, I would be buying “new” Rally’s, my current wheels are just the stock 14’s with hubcaps.

I have 14” rims with my ‘69 single cylinder disk brakes on my ‘68 ‘vert.

Same here with a set of JC Rallys. They are tight but they clear.

I agree with Bob S. I had a 67 camaro with power drums and they almost killed me once with brake fade from a high speed stop. Felt like I hit a patch of butter, scared the crap out of me. Then I had a stock disc setup that was out of a 70 nova installed with the single piston calipers and it stopped amazing. It stopped so well I can't understand why anyone would need 4 wheel disc or huge willwoods etc. Actually my 68 Firebird has power drums and i just bought a set of stock 70 chevelle discs to put on it. Only time will tell if they work as well as i expect them to.