Thanks to Barnbird, seems like I've got my electrical issue on the run. About 150 short trip miles, no problems.
Thanks to this site, my overheat issue ( https://firstgenfirebird.org/forums...ixing-my-over-heat-issue.html#Post312071 ) is somewhat better. Decided to install new water pump. R&R went fine. Temperature for the most part is good.
I've always had a small coolant leak, top of block, behind water pump. Water pump swap did not resolve, might have made it worse.
I've attached a pic to show location of leak.

Hoping someone can give me a clue on what needs to be done.

Thanks much...don t.

If coolant is sitting on the valley pan then it’s usually the intake to water pump joint, thermostat cover, or the hose. The best way to chase coolan leaks is with a pressure tester. Pump it up cold and you should be able to find the leak

Great to hear she is not sitting in the Barn anymore. Just like Bob said it's the upper hose connection at the the thermostat housing, the thermostat housing to intake gasket or the flat rubber O-ring between the timing cover and intake. If you do not want to buy a pressure tester the major chain parts stores will usually loan one out. Wait till the engine is completely cool and wipe up the whole area really well. Pressurize a little higher then the pressure that is stamped on your radiator cap. Let sit while wiping your finger around the areas we mentioned until you find the leak or leaks. If it ends up being the timing cover to intake seal you need to remove the intake to replace it. Make sure and repost if it is for tips.

Yes...seems to be in the valley pan.

Im almost positive I can eliminate the hose to thermostat.
Im almost positive I can eliminate the thermo housing to intake.
Since I had played in these 2 areas, they were the 1st places I checked.
I've wiped it down, took it for a ride to get it hot. Neither of these seemed to have a leak.

Let's run down the "timing cover to intake seal" road.
Yes...please...tips/tricks/things that work are appreciated.

Thanks for the help. Very much appreciated.
Have fun...don t.

The intake to timing cover joint has an o ring inside the metal to metal contact. Unfortunately it’s not an easy fix. You have to either remove the timing cover or remove the intake manifold. Then clean the surfaces and use a new o ring with a little sealer

Do not assume anything is the first thing you learn as an auto tech so your not just wasting customers money. You need to verify that seal is leaking. Dry off the joint drive the car to get hot and up to pressure shut off and wait about 20 to 30 minutes and brush your finger under the joint, if nothing go back every 15 minutes and check again. If you can't find anything then you have to proceed with the pressure tester as the next step. Here is a picture of it to help you locate. http://www.teufert.net/partbook/67-76/0-i.pdf scroll down to illustration #6 and #16 in the diagram is the seal. If you have had a timing chain in the last 40k the best way to replace it is by removing the intake manifold. Go to the manual and follow the steps especially the tightening sequence. here is the manual from Harold Bs site https://www.firebird400ho.com/mdocuments-library/ go to the preview V-8 engine service section and scroll down to intake manifold replacement. The reason the seal is leaking is probably because when someone installed that aluminum manifold they did not follow the tightening sequence. when reinstalling the manifold you leave all the manifold to head bolts loose without heads touching and then tighten the long front bolt for the seal until the manifold and timing cover are metal to metal then torque to 15 foot lbs. and finally tighten your manifold bolts following the sequence in the manual or if none tighten in a circular pattern starting in the center and working your way out. The spec is 40 ft. lb. so do in 3 increments. Make sure you use a high temp either nickel or copper antiseize on all your bolts especially the long seal bolt as that will be a steel bolt in an aluminum intake. Speaking of that long bolt if one of the bolts is going to fight you that will be the one because of its length and small diameter and also the fact it is going into aluminum. Hopefully the previous repairer thought about the next poor guy that would have to take it apart and used anti-seize. If it wont come do not force it and break, use a torch and set the flame small and pinpoint and heat the manifold, if you are uncomfortable with that then cut the bolt leaving enough to grab hold of to heat and remove once the manifold is off. Hopefully you have verified it's actually leaking and this post wasn't a total waste of time. Good luck.

Bob S.... Thank you. Kind of thought it would not be easy when I R&Red the water pump.
WAY different then the Chevy engines I've worked on.

BarnBird.... Your post was not a waste of time.
I totally agree on troubleshooting vs. throwing $'s at a problem. Case in point, electrical issue. New wiring would not have fixed my grounding out horn relay.

I'll need to review the paperwork I got from the prior owner. He did a lot of engine work, hope a new timing chain was done. Due to other projects, this one will get pushed to a back burner for the time being, but at least I have a point of reference when the time comes. I'll watch temp gauge, coolant level, short trips to town.

Thanks gents. Your time to reply is much appreciated.
Have fun, don t.

Howdy, Few years ago I had coolant sitting in the exact same place. This was after it sat five months through the winter. Cleaned it up but like you couldn't find where it was coming from. Ran all summer with no leaks but the following spring I had colland in the same place. Ended up it was leaking through the head gasket.

I've ran another full tank of gas w/no electrical issues.
Since Im up on the learning curve, before I fire her up, I always....
...check radiator for coolant level. Have not needed to add any.
...wipe off the coolant leak in the valley.
A drive could be 10 miles, could be 50.
When I return, I pop the hood and there is coolant in valley.
Next day, there is a smallish puddle on garage floor.
Aint had time to look for past work.
Aint had time to fix the issue.
Otherwise, she does run decent enough even tho she needs a tuneup or carb adjustment.

Havin fun....don t.

I have been fighting the same issue. I narrowed it down to the thermostat housing but so far I haven't been able to solve it. I have changed the housing, installed several gaskets using different sealants and tried different torque settings. Every time it seals for a while but eventually starts leaking again. Sometimes it can appear to be fine after a ride but when I check back a few days later "it's baaaaaack".
I have checked the housing to make sure it is flat, That seemed to be the problem with the original one.