hey guys

i would just like to say that City streets suck!
i go over a pot hole the size of texas down the main strip and it snaps my upper ball joint.

so anyways i took off all the hardware except for the stud is still stuck on the back part of the drum. i took out the pin and the nut, and started hitting it with a hammer and it wouldn't budge....any ideas?
oh and the new ball joint came with the grease plug, but no hole on the topside to install it, do i have to make my own?


Steve

Steve,

This may be too basic, so excuse me if it is. The upper ball joint stud is tapered and must be removed from the bottom (nut side). You might try using a little heat on the spindle and then hitting the side of the spindle (where the stud is located) and then hitting the stud from the bottom. That should get it out. If that doesn't work, then I recommend you remove the whole unit from the car and take it to a machine shop so they can remove it for you.

There should be a small bolt in the top of the ball joint. Remove the bolt and install the grease fitting.

Hope this helps.

Tom

I had that happen once. I used an old set of vise grips, really cranked them onto the stud with about 1/2" of space between the steering knuckle and the vise grips, taped the handles together with tape so they wouldn't pop open, and used a ball joint fork between the spindle and the vise grips to separate the stud from the spindle. Put the nut back on upside down until it's flush with the end of the stud, if you can, to help keep the stud from mushrooming if you do more hammering on the bottom. It's harder to get it back out if it's mushroomed.

Rent a ball joint puller. AutoZone rents stuff like that for free (well - actually you buy it then return it for a refund)

It's a "C" shaped frame with a threaded center rod similar to the ones for removing tie rod ends and pitman arms. It will prevent you from beating up your spindle and hammering on your suspension.

I forgot about those! Yep, that would be the best way to do it!

It's kind of fun to wail on the separator fork. You need a 3lb BFH or larger. Ball joint pullers are for sissies.

If you have no luck with these suggestions you will have to drill it down the center. That would relieve the pressure.
Jim

It's hard to wail on the separator fork when the stud is not in the socket. Hit it, yeah, but don't knock the clamp off 'cause it will hit something important.

Say Bob,
a 6lb. engineers hammer w/16" handel makes it a one pass job.

Tom

ok guys...step 2

im back from vacation and got the stud out!
(a little help from a mini-sledge and some heat)
but now i got the new ball joint and the bolts are bigger than the stock one. the stud is the same size and so it the joint when it its on the arm, but is that right? bigger bolts? they won't fit on the control arm though..so do i drill? or what is the next course of action?

Steve

what brand is it? i've never had to drill the holes larger. cant quite remember the bolt size but i think it was pretty small, like 1/4" thread.... maybe a 7/16 wrench?

i guess the old one was already a bolt in replacement for the OE riveted one....?

yes the riveted one was already replaced
i bought it from NAPA, hence the brand also..

i just checked the bolts, the old ones are 7/16s and the new ones are 1/2 in

You will need to drill them out. I recently replaced mine with the ball joints from NPD and they had to be drilled out.

I also had to drill to install Moog (first replacement).

The set I got from PST are correct. No drilling.