Anyone know anything about the printed circuit board on a 68? Right now only 3 of the 7 lights work. Is their a way to clean it? Nothing appears to be broken but honestly I've never looked at one of these. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The bulbs twist into the housing making contact with the printed circuit board. Carefully clean both light bulb socket and printed circuit board with a little fine Scotchbrite. Bulb sockets are hard to find. I ordered bulbs from Oreillys.

Ty sir, I will give it a try

I had similar issues with mine, lights not working or glowing dim all the time. The circuit board looked Ok. A new one fixed all the issues. Not that expensive.

I need more help please. Replaced the printed circuit and the bulbs. Here's where the problem is. The guages aren't working right. When I turn the key to the on position the fuel guage goes to super full. Checked out some other post and all say that's a bad ground. So I ran a wire from the negative. When I'm sitting in drivers seat key off door opens the guage lights are on. I touch the negative wite to the Metal bbar in center screw and the guage lights go out. Still goes to super full. Any thoughts?

Bad grounds are the biggest culprit. Are you sure the gauges are stock to the car? If someone just replaced the idiot light pod with the gauge pod, then the wiring pinouts may be different. In any case, I think you need to take the wiring diagram and verify that all the wires are in their correct positions in the harness connector for gauges. And of course the gauges may be faulty after 55 years. The FSM has procedures for testing them. I know when I swapped in full gauges on second gen cars a lot of re-pinning was required so the wiring was correct. At least on second gen cars the gauges were pretty common so replacing bad ones with swap meet finds was a simple effort.

Ok, thanks. I should be able to dive in this weekend

Do you know how to re-pin the connectors? At the end of the wire is a fitting that has a tiny bent-up section. It locks into the plastic connector so it can't back out. To release it you insert a tiny tool like a jeweler's screwdriver from the open side while pushing the wire forward. That presses the bent part down and the wire will slide out rearward. To re-insert it you must re-bend that part back up or the wire will not stay put.