We have a 68 convertible bird at work that i am fixing a bunch of things. Someone put in aftermarket power windows in a non power window car. Whatever kit it is, its not very good. On the quarter windows the motor bolts to a thin metal bracket with a few spacers in between. The bracket then bolts to the inside panel with 3 studs. the whole assembly is not very sturdy and twists a bit when moving the window up and down. The window randomly does not have full travel up and down. I have had the whole mess out of the car trying to get it to travel smoothly on the factory roller guide. Also had replaced one of the rollers because it was broken in 2. There was also some rigging to hold the window switches in. The passenger door window is another nightmare. The window doesn't fully travel up and there is about 3/4" gap from it being fully closed. I have had that apart and lubed all the rollers and tracks and made sure the upper stops were high enough for full travel. But to no avail. fun stuff
Thanks I got the quarter windows tracks and rollers figured out and working ok The problem is on the one side when they did the metalwork and bodywork the gap is to tight where the felts are. So it is pinching the chrome piece to firmly so that the window isn't dropping down all the way. Right now the door glass is the problem with these weak motors. People don't realize how heavy the door glass is.
Bigchief, how hard is it to install factory power quarter windows, in place of manual windows? Would they bolt right up? I ask because I have a set of '68 doors with power glass I can use, but the rear glass is manual.I would need to source the rears. Ignoring the bad metal work, are the aftermarket power units still that weak? Any idea what brand?
I have no idea what brand, but honestly would just leave it manual. Not worth all the trouble with all the wiring and switches that you have to install.
So i have been working on power windows on a 1968 Camaro and a 1968 Firebird. Both are convertibles. I have to say i would never want to own a power window car. I have wasted many hours on these windows trying to make them close and line up perfectly with the window seals. I have been doing this stuff for 38+ years and this is a complete nightmare. Even when i get them close to perfect as i can get them after a few up and down cycles they are off again. The problems with these cars is over the past 57 years who knows the history of these cars and there have been way to many people that have had their hands on them. You know when you go to work on a car and find metric hardware, its going to be a problem. Then there is the added fact that lots of sheet metal has been replaced. Floors, quarter panels, fenders
At least they have decent regulators. Ever screw with these newer cars? With the cable and wire systems? Yikes! F bodies can usually be made to open/close OK when the window felts and glass guide fuzzy pads are new. Every rattly door I have ever seen had no fuzz on the pads letting the glass rattle against the bare metal. I feel for you.
Update The boss had a body guy come in and mess with the 68 Camaro. He spent over 2 days on the car. Long story short, the car was all welded together Improperly and crooked and he did the best he could. A door skin was put on the drivers door, the rear inner sheet metal was not in the proper position when they welded new quarter panels on. Also the convertible top frame is bent and not installed properly so the top of the glass does not sit in the rubber weatherstrip correctly. Buyer beware Just between the hours i personally put in the car and what the body guy put in the car trying to fix the windows totaled over 20 hours And we still have a 68 Firebird convertible to get the windows working correct.
The body guy came in and worked on the power windows in this 68 Firebird convertible after putting in new quarter window regulators. After days of pulling the metal that the regulators bolt to and slotting holes and adjusting all 4 windows. What a complete nightmare.
I hate working on cars that have been worked on by shade tree idiots. I feel for you.
We just ran complete fuel and vapor lines on a 1980 Trans Am. Why? Because some rubberhead had removed them all, and ran a rubber hose fuel line from the gas tank to the carburetor. YIKES!!! They had also 'rebuilt' the 400, and forgot to install the internal little journal mounted dip stick tube that steers the dipstick away from the crank shaft.
I knew a convertible top guy that warned me in no uncertain terms to NEVER take the convertible frame apart. He said it was assembled at the factory on a jig. You will never get it back to where it belongs if you take it apart. All I did to mine was to clean and oil the hinges and pivots. My buddy took his all apart. I can't wait for the hi-jinks to start.
I had to work on another bird that someone purchased off fleabay I can tell you in all honesty it was just a big a big POS Tv shows and auctions ruined the whole car deal
