I have a 1967 Coupe with only about 1500 miles on a complete (326) engine rebuild. It has developed a bad rear engine seal or pan gasket leak right near the rear seal. Can the pan be removed without removing the engine?

I agree... while it can be done, usually it takes much less time to pull the motor than it would to fight with it to "try" and do it while still partially in the car. It's really hard to do it that way even if you've done it a few times.

Not all that much involved on pulling the motor on out cars... prett easy compaired to newer cars!

Good luck, take your time, think things through and don't cut ant corners... you don't want to do this again, you just want to drive and enjoy!

Brett - 67 Drop Top 455! (much the same project planned for this winter!)

Thanks for your replies fellows. Is there an aftermarket rear seal available that's going to be more reliable then the rope style?

Priceless Q quote,

"The B-O-P seal is available from Spotts, Pontiac Dude and many others. It is the best. One more thing to make sure about: The PCV valve MUST be working for the seal to be effective, otherwise the pressure in the crankcase will push oil past the seal."

Jim

The rope type rear main seal on Pontiacs really sucks -or to be more precise- blows. If there is an aftermarket seal available now- definitely get it- anything would be better than rope.

Mine leaked right after I did a rebuild, and burned out my clutch by the time I got to it. I replaced it with the engine in the car. There is a tool you can buy to replace rear mains with the engine and crank in the car. I think its called a "Sneaky Pete", by Lisle. It worked ok, as I remember. I was very careful to trim the rope very flush, then I put a ton of permatex black everywhere I could. That did the trick.

As I recall, if I had to do it over again I would have removed the engine. There are few things worse than lying on your back for 6 hours while oil is dripping in your eyes. Then you can't sleep that night because the muscle cramps set in from keeping your arms above your head for 6 hours.
Its true that you have to disconnect so much that the engine is 80% out anyway.
Take it out- you'll save yourself a lot of pain, and you will be able to clean and fix some other things while you're at it.

i would cheat.pay a mechanic to do it.that way if it leaks afterwards;he has to redo it rather than you...

Hey, Terry....I thought you were going on a cruise!

Check with Butler or Kauffman they sell the new type of rear main seal can't remember the name but I have one in my bird and it does'nt leak.

I did a pan in the car, and if I recall I didn't have to lift the engine off its mounts, but you do have to drop the drag link/center link. Yanking the engine isn't a major tough job. Even so, it's a toss up as to which is eaiser, depending on tool availibality and mechanical skill level. For instance, my arms wouldn't cramp because and the agravation of such a job wouldn't be an issue because, even recently, I have earned my living that way, so it's a way of life.

As far as installing the pan gasket, get a cork gasket and install it DRY, WITHOUT SEALER! And make sure that the flange holes aren't sucked in. If they are, hammer them so that they are flush with the pan. Also, a clean mating surface is mandatory.

If anyone has the part number for anything other than the rope type please let me know it and where to get it. My engine dosen't have more than 200 miles on it but the guy I bought the car from lat it set for three years before it got broken in and I think it dryed out. It has slowed a little but I'l still going to yank the engine this winter ( When it starts to go down to 40deg around here) and change it then.

Thanks

Ok I just looked at them and now I need to know if there is a way to tell if I have a 3" or 3 1/4" seal before I pull the engine? I'm sure this is a stupid question. Differance between a Big block and a small block pontiac. :p

Its not a stupid question, Brian. But whoever answers it might make you feel stupid! :p

Awwwwwwwwwww ..... Nash ... do we do that here?

The 326, 350, 389 and 400 have a 3" seal. A 421, 428 and 455 have a 3-1/4" seal.

So it is the differance between the big and the small block

More correctly, large and small main journal. Block sizes are the same from 326-455.