I have a 69 250 ohc and iam having problems with it wanting to die on me when i come to a stop, thought the carb. needed adjusting so after adjusting myself did not fix the problem I took it to the shop they said it was not the carb. it was fine they did a compression test and said the #5 cylinder only registered 30 with all remaining cylinders reg.around 150 they said it was probably the cylinder head is cracked. my question is if it is cracked would this cause it to want to stall when stoping?

Loss of cylinder pressure can be many other things than a cracked head. Could be bad rings, bad seal on valve, bad spring, blown gasket, etc.

I'm not an expert, but a loss of pressure on any cylinder would cause you any number of problems.

Before you spend bucks, try checking your upper valve train and re-torqing your head bolts down. It won't hurt to try.

For the other more techy guys here: If he has a valve leak, wouldn't the excess pressure in the cylinder leak backwards into the manifold and cause a reverse-vacuum on the carb and maybe cause the stalling problems, or is my logic wrong?

The most likely cause of the lack of compression is a burnt or badly worn exhaust valve or seat. A cracked head would have to have a huge crack in it to leak any measurable amount of air. Take it to a shop that can do a leak-down test. This will do two things: first, the test will pinpoint exactly where the air is leaking, and second, usually if a shop has this equipment, they are likely a bit better at diagnosing engine problems and fixing them.

Now for the next part. After confirming that your engine needs head work, you'll need to find a good shop that will do your head the right way. These heads are fussy about the height of the valve tips after all the work has been done, and most shops will try to even the tips out by grinding them down. Wrong thing to do! Beware!

Before I freak you out too much, get the test done and post the results, and we'll take it from there. Parts, advice, and tech support are readily available from Primatech .

And don't worry, the mighty OHC will ride again!

Thanks for all the advise, i will get the leakdown test done and get back to you with the results thanks I will say primetech does know the 6-cyl. OHC's I've already been pricing a head from them but sure hate to pay that price and then find out it was'nt the head after all.
I'll get back to you in a couple of days ,thanks
Albert

One thing about head work on the OHC: Read TOHCan's post about the valve tip height and about NOT grinding the valve tips. It's critical to their performance that the factory dimensions be maintained after a rebuild.

Primatech has valves custom made for those heads, with the correct tip height and overall length, so that grinding the tips isn't required after a rebuild. Along with the custom valves, we also install hardened exhaust seats, all new springs and new hardened retainers and keepers. The under-cut, swirl polished valves get a full 3-angle valve job and then we cc every head.

P. M. I. Head Services

I hate to pick on Banshee, but since I get to do it so rarely ... Um ... Tom ... have you ever tried to run and OHC with the valve cover off? Kinda tough.

Here comes Clive ....

Yeah, you need a couple of extra hands to keep the cam in place.

i had a couple of those heads crack around a valve and cause a dead miss. it gave the same symptoms as a stuck open or cracked valve

I had to lol myself at banshee but did'nt want to say anything and hurt someones feelings but its all good teresa

well I had the leakdown test done and it is 2 burnt valves causing all my problems so i'll go from there...i was planing on doing some work on the engine this winter anyway doesnt look to bad ....thanks for all the help and suggestions from everyone !