Hi all,

I'm changing my 69 to a parchment interior. Can someone recommend a paint (brand, color) to use for the arm rests, the seat backs, and (any?) other plastic pieces? I've experimented with a couple different rattle cans but they seem to be too "white", if you know what I mean.

Thanks,

John

John, which ones have you tried so far? I used the NPD spray paint for interior FGFs (plastic/vinyl/sheetmetal), matched my Ivy Gold perfectly. If they can match my color they must be able to get close to your parchment.

Then again, I'd think that parchment is so light it would age and darken much quicker than a more solid base color. Could be hard to match based on exposure, eh?

How well do the "dyes" you buy in a rattle can work on vinyl like the seats? Can you really spray paint it all?! My interior (teal) is in great shape, but it has some black "freckles" that look like mildew or something. Tried all kinds of mildew/stain/mold remover but it won't go away.

You need to prep the area very well.As with any paint project, proper adhesion and application is in the surface prep.You will need to make sure you get ALL dirt,grease,armour all/vinyl protectant off the surface first, otherwise it will flake off or "orange peel/fish eye".Hold the can away at the recommended distance or about 10-12 inches and spray in a horizontal direction and then wait a few minutes for it to tack up and then spray in a vertical direction.Repeat several times to get complete coverage you are satisfied with.Do not try and get complete coverage in one shot,you may just make a big mess that will be very difficult to correct (ie: runs)Don't worry about complete coverage the first time around.Take your time and do several light coats.You can save yourself quite a few $ by doing this but preperation and patience is key.
Use the "VINYL" dye in a rattle can.Good luck.

David

Chansen, unless you are a pro and have mastered all the prep of re-painting a FLEXIBLE component (like the seat covers you mention), it is much better to go ahead and buy repro covers from quality folks like NPD, Classic, etc. I tried for years, and got good at patching and fixxing, but for a flexible piece like the seat covers, its pretty tough to get pleased with the results.

For Hard vinyl, plastic, metal, etc, you can most certainly work those pieces to near perfection with the proper prep, paint adhesion spray, then true color spray. All original colors for these projects are available from several sources.

I have the same trouble. However, I am finding that I like white tops on black armrests for some reason...

I was also thinking it would be difficult to dye the seats. Didnt have the guts to try it and mess it up. The interior I have is what the car came with and without the freckles it really is in good shape. Are the new interiors good quality? The dye I have worked great on the molded plastic inserts around the door handles that were faded after time in the sun. (my bird is a convertible - I'll post a picture if I can figure it out)

I'll try the vertical areas next to the seats first. Worst case, I guess I'm buying new.

Thanks for the help.

John,

I used the correct parchment pearl rattle cans from Classic Industries. The key is to properly prep the plastic arm rests, seat backs, etc. and use a good plastic adhesion coat like Bully Dog - available at any Sherwin-Williams Automotive Finishes location. Then paint with the two stage kit from Classic.

My kick panels, dash and sunvisors were black from the factory so I left them that way.

I used PUI seat covers and door panels - they have the correct '69 parchment pearl.

Tom

Chansen, buy new front and rear seat covers from NPD, in my opinion. Theirs matched my 68 Ivy Gold interior perfectly, a very hard color to match.

I've painted ALOT of car pieces over the years, but seat covers are next to impossible. If anyone sits in the newly painted seatcovers then stratches will occur almost immediately.

I have had great success shooting vinyl (bumper/flexible) paint. It's a nasty substance tho, so buy the $50 gun and throw it away afterwards.

Dial in at 45psi and like 30% paint to air ratio, then 3 to 4 coats. Experiment on something else (dog dish). Prep, prep, prep... tri-sodium-phosphate (tsp) is an excellent cleaner, take your time and shoot everything at once.

VALSPAR REFINISH

PRIMER: PR3 FLEXIBLE 2K POLYURETHANE
ACTIVATOR: HPC000 URETHANE

FINISH COAT: 345 VINYL TRIM
SAME ACTIVATOR

and yes, keep your butt off them for 30 days if possible.

Johnny Mac

PS. I forgot, I bought two guns and pitched them afterwards (1-primer, 1-finish)

what about the metal tops of the doors on the 67 firebird that have to be painted to match the interior (parchment in my case)??

What paint do you use there?


JJS

you can go cheap way and use a rattle can while hoping you don't scratch it or have some flakes off or if you wanted to do it the right way and have it last. get the paint from a pro paint shop and use a adheasion additive to it and spray it the right way and it will last. this is a base color (in your case parchment) with a plastics adheasion for the interior soft and hard plastics and a additive for metal. color matching is not a big deal and painting it takes a little parctice. the cost is more and you will need more tools to do it; but, no flakes and minimal scratches. your choice.

68 all #matching 400 ho 4spd to go.

I can definitely do it right, but what is the color code I need and which company makes it?

Joe

color code is obsolete you will have to match something of original color to get it right.


68 400 h.o #matching 4spd to go!

I DO NOT HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS VENDOR. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/cgi-bin/view1.aspx?comments=true

The code 22985 is the PPG/Ditzler code for 1968 Parchment interior "gloss" paint. http://thefirstgensite.com/library/paintchips/1968-pontiac-pg02.jpg

Please be sure to contact the vendor to inquire before ordering any custom paint.