I am finally getting towards the end of my resto on my 69'convertible and was wondering if it is worth the money to replace the power top motor and cylinders. It may be easier just to manually put the top up and down. It will be another expense and I have no plans to re-sell the car when it is done. Just wanted some opinions.
I have a power top that hasn't worked for 15 years. Putting it down and up manually is no big deal but I plan to replace the rotten hoses and get it back up and running once I get everything else done. It's not a major priority but the power top is way nicer than manual!
Several people told me not to lower and raise a power top by hand unless the cylinders are unhooked. It will crack the frame. When I bought my car the hoses were shot and the previous owner did just that so I had some welding to do to the frame. Barry
Poch, I have a power top on my ’69. When I purchased it, the top had to be operated manually. One of the PO’s left the pumps bung out, and it wasn’t mounted at all. Needless to say I had to fix a few things to get the system working. I found a temporary bung from the hardware store, and bought the rubber mounting grommets From NPD. Once I got the pump filled, I found one of the lift cylinders had a leak. So I replaced it with one from NPD. Long story short, I had to send back two of these to NPD. The bottom hose connection would leak due to a different fitting. The lift cylinders from NPD have an O ring. The factory lift cylinders have a flair fitting, and so do the hoses. I finally bought the correct lift cylinder from Ames. It’s wonderful when the power top works as it should! After I got everything in working order, the frigin pumps body seal started leaking. I’m tired of trying to repair the darn 37 year old thing, so it will get replaced. Depending what you need to restore the power top, it can get expensive. $200 - $250 for a pump, and $150 for the correct lift cylinders from Ames. Your old hoses should be ok, mine were. But if you have a pin hole, or the hose is kinked a replacement kit is $100+. How is the rest of your top; bushings, cables, pads, cover, window and seals? Think about these things before getting the power portion of the top working. To convert to a manual top you will need to replace the lift cylinders with the spring set. You will also need the hold down clips. I haven’t priced these items. It may turn out to be just as expensive. I guess the decision depends on if you want to push a button to put the top up and down.
Poncho... another 'take' on that... I had a power top in mine ,it didnt work, hoses were shot, the motor would work, but was loose in the back ,rattling ,so I took it out plus the wiring...got rid of the frazzled hoses, my switch was under the dash , I assumed it was an aftermkt switch , but car had undergone extensive rebuild 10 yrs earlier so I didnt know what was orig and not , maybe another dash? maybe power top was added? anyway , I didnt want to spend money on the power top because I saw when my friends that had them , it took quite a time to raise the top with power...manually its alot quicker and since we quite often can get showers very fast here , I prefer to be able to raise the top by hand ,fast. my cylinders are still there ,but empty and I have no idea if they are good or bad, but the top works fine manually ,nothing is bent, broken...you dont need to convert to use the power top manually...to get the springs...nor the hold down clips, I dont have those ,the top is not going up by itself...I drove it at speeds over 95-100 mph without the boot w/o any problem...I since have bought a boot for it...it will hold it down too, but not needed... if it were me , I`d just get rid of the hoses , drain the cylinders , if needed( I dont know ,mine were empty when I got it)and use it manually...its faster and cheaper... just my .02
so after these replies you are probably not any closer to a decision than before! :rolleyes:
I think I can live without the power top working and all the headaches that go with it. I really don't want to put another $300-$400 into that stuff, with no gaurantee how long it will all work right. I like your idea Bjorn, and I will have a boot.
I have a coupe but if I did have a vert, I'd see to it that the power top was functioning properly no matter what the cost...When it comes time to sell, you need this to work to get your top dollar for the car.
Ken ,agreed ..to get top dollar that would be it...but if not selling , why spend $ on something that you dont need? I`d fix that part just before selling if I was worried about getting top dollar ,so it at least was working when sold....but not sure you` d get the $500 back as extra dollars when sold if thats all thats missing...Ihave kept my motor and switch in the garage so if I sell mine I can say :" here is the motor and switch...all you need to make it work is to install the motor , get hoses and wiring, fill it with oil"...
I guess my thinking is we all overspend on our cars anyway so why not invest the $$ in an accessory that the car originally was equipped with...I'm real fussy when it comes down to power accessories that are not functioning... Sure, you're not going to get the $500 back when sold but you're also not going to get back the thousands you sunk into the car either!...At least the $500 is an important part of the car!
If I were in your shoes, I'm not sure what I'd do. Well, ya, I do: I'd spend the money on other things my car needs.
Having said that... The power top on my `68 works, and I love it. Coming home one day last fall, it started to rain, so I put the top up using just one finger while stopped at a red light.
It's also a GREAT part of the "show": When I take people for a ride, I usually pick them up with the top up. Once they get inside, I undo the two latches from where I sit, push the switch under the dash, and the top goes down. BIG smiles and thumbs up all around!
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Coming home one day last fall, it started to rain, so I put the top up using just one finger while stopped at a red light.
It's also a GREAT part of the "show": When I take people for a ride, I usually pick them up with the top up. Once they get inside, I undo the two latches from where I sit, push the switch under the dash, and the top goes down. BIG smiles and thumbs up all around! </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Obviously we live in different climates ,which may have an impact on how you see the importance of a power top... My top stays down , only goes up IF I encounter rain...and if you know how rain comes in Texas , = VERY FAST and LOTS of it, its usually not time to sit back and hold a button...you`d be drenched! Compared to how fast my friends tops go down , or up...mine takes less than 1/3 of that time...
Not trying to argue a point here , just letting "Poncho" have all the input...
I certainly wouldn't install a power top just because the rain can creep up on you. And it doesn't really creep up on me or suprise me where I live; it was a sunny day when I drove it to work, and clouding over when I drove it home at the end of the day. Half way home, when a few drops appeared on the windshield, it was time to put the top up.
I don't know how long it takes the top to go up and down... never timed it, and the battery is unhooked at the moment... remind me to clock it in May! I would guess it takes somewhere around 15 seconds? That's a real rough guess.
I hold to my other point though; my car is almost as old as I am, and to have an (almost) 40 year old car with a power top that functions great.... well, for me it just adds to how special these beasts are. Not to mention the "whine" sound that it makes! I'm guessing the new Solstice doesn't make quite the same noise!
Having said all that, when my system self-destructs one day, it'll probably be a manual top from that day forward! In the meantime, I love it. (Have I mentioned I love the power top?)
PonchoMan: perhaps therein lies your answer: if you haven't experienced a FGF power top before, check it out. If you think it's really really cool, as I do, maybe you go for it one day and spend the $$$. But if your reaction is "Eh, no big deal.", then you wisely invest your money elsewhere.
Dave, it may very well also depend on how 'good'your "system" is, how fast it goes...my friends here that I have seen go by 'power' seem very slow ( I`m thinking more like 15-20 sec`s.., whereas mine is 2-3 sec`s ,manually, after I rip the boot off), maybe motor , maybe wiring, maybe something is not quite up to par??possibly they are supposed to be faster and were?
You guys rock as always. This is the first convertible I have ever restored and the extra expense has been adding up. That $500 spent would pay for the new top, so for me I think I will yank out the hydraulics,store them, and be happy putting it up and down by hand. If the time comes to sell I may put the money into it then. Bottom line is the 2 year resto job is almost finished but the old money tree is looking a little thin. Thanks.
LOL... You guys crack me up...manual or not...lol. I've owned mine since 1986. The conv. top will need replacing every 5-10 years, hoses every 12-15 years, motor and cylinders hardly ever. If you like it manual, keep it that way. If you like it automatic, fix it and keep it working.
Don't forget a paint job every 10-15 years. Yeah it adds up but so does boat expenses or other recreation. Spend the money if you have it and don't if not. The main thing is to enjoy and drive your car.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> i love my coupe no problems with the top going up or my girls top coming down </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Pictures?
quote: "I guess my thinking is we all overspend on our cars anyway so why not invest the $$ in an accessory that the car originally was equipped with..."
I don’t think it’s a matter of overspending. We shell out so much due to being in a specific group, collectors/enthusiasts. It’s like motorcycling. A small group compared to the rest of the population. So motorcycle ‘stuff’ commands a high price for catering to a small group. Same goes for us. Since I own motorcycles I’m use to high prices on necessary items, and even higher on creature comforts. I won’t even go into Beemer specific stuff. The one bargain I have found in motorcycling are ‘60’s –‘70’s vintage Honda’s. Parts are plentiful and so are the bikes. Now if you don’t know how to service one, that can get expensive if taken to someone who will. I have to agree to the WOW factor of having a working power top. Yes it will drain your wallet when you need to get it back in working order. IMO it’s worth it for the satisfaction and smiles it brings.
Tom '02 Kawasaki KLR 650 '94 BMW R1100RSL '88 Chevrolet K1500 '73 Honda CL 350K5 '71 Honda CB 350K3
I was searching and came upon this post. Couple of questions and comments.
Does anyone know how to replace the cylinders for the power top? Sequence of events since I will embark on this project this weekend?
Secondly, when I bought my car the top was operating in manual mode. I then realized it was a power top, and decided to get it working since all the components were there and the power switch was just disconnected. To Bjorn's point, for a period of time I was manually putting the top up and down. If you do it from the drivers side of the car and not in the center, over time, the top cracked a weld from the non uniform force applied up and down. I had it rewelded, and had to put the top up by holding the center of the top. When my system was full, the top worked very quickly, but I used a full size motor from a swap meet for $40 bucks. Just drilled two holes in the motor brackets to mount with the rubber dampers as the shorter pumps do. Long story short, it's cheaper, but in my case more of a pain from other issues.
So if anyone has replaced the cylinders I would love to hear how it's done from someone who has the experience.
I replaced the cylinders on mine. I had 'everything' apart at the time. I can't see any reason you can't replace them without removing anything else(other than the interior pieces for access). The bolts are a little tough to reach but not impossible. Two special 'pivot' bolts at the bottom of the cylinder and the one you can see at the rod end. There is the line fitting, at the bottom of the cylinder, that's hard to reach too. I posted the bleeding instructions a while back. I got them from the repair manual.
I am familiar with the bleeding since I have been thru this. I am not sure how to access the pivit bolts, especially the one facing toward the quarter panel? I will have a better look this weekend. I hope the top does not need to be removed?
I wouldn't remove anything. Then you will not get out of adjustment. I tried using my old cylinders and they didn't work good so I replaced the cylinders all by themselves the second try. You can get at those pivot bolts. You will see when you remove those inspection covers.
The cylinders are replaced, and yes I did have to take the brackets off with the cylinder attached. There was absolutely no way to get at the outer pin bolt because it was flush against the body of the car and the length prevented it from coming out of the opening in the cylinder.
Once off you replace the cylinders and it slides right back in with the bracket. The top is disconnected but fairly straight forward to reassemble. Works great now.
Nice to just push a button and relax while the top goes up/down...aahhhhhh.
The one bargain I have found in motorcycling are ‘60’s –‘70’s vintage Honda’s. Parts are plentiful and so are the bikes. Now if you don’t know how to service one, that can get expensive if taken to someone who will. 
