I am having problems with the gas door closing correctly on 68 Convertible. Any one else have this problem? I notice I can get new spring. Has anyone tried magnets or installed latch system?
Thanks, Grant
I have two 68 Firebirds: 68 convertible ls2, auto 4L60E, red interior, white/black power top. I have owned since 1971. 2) 68 coupe, aqua/white tope. aqua interior, 350 4 speed. I am restoring this car and it will be for sale. Before paint or after.
LOL - I KNEW I could help someone someday if I waited long enough.
(Yes, I toyed with the idea of magnets etc and alllmost implemented a magnet solution. You can get small rare earth magenets all over eBay.)
Your problem is that the door has some spring in it, but it doesn't pull-up tight? It kinda hangs open by around a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch? If yes, read on...
My solution - it's not elegant but it saved me buying a new spring and the hassle of swapping it.
There's no need to disassemble anything.
The spring attaches on two ends - the car end, and the door end. The CAR end has a kind of hook on it. You need to jam something in the hook end to effectively make the spring a little shorter - a shim. There's not much room.
What I did is take some stranded wire (14 gauge?) and stripped the insulation off of around 4 inches. I re-twisted the wire so it won't fray.
Then all I did was loop the wire around the hook end (with the closed portion of the wire loop at the bottom of the hook.) Then to cinch things down I just twisted the top of the loop closed like a bread twisty tie. Make sure it's firmly tied in there and then you can just snip off the extra wire at the top. A little touch-up paint on the wire and only a show judge would complain!
If you need a picture - let me know.
Like I said, it ain't pretty but that door doesn't mock me anymore, especially when I park on a hill! :p
I got lucky in that my hook end broke off in the exact right spot that I could stick the broken end of the spring back in the slot, and now it works great. The hook broke off because i kept trying to rebend the spring to get tension back, which worked as a very temporary solution, but eventually broke.
I was wondering why you could not just cut a coil off the spring; similar to lowering the front suspension.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
It's not a coil spring. [img]http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?Parta~ShowThumb~Z5Z5Z50000136dDABRU~Z5Z5Z5179~Z5Z5Z5146~Z5Z5Z50000136d~Z5Z5Z5x~Z5Z5Z5DABRU[/img]
I believe years ago I stretched my spring once to get it to have tension again. I figured that if I broke it I could always order a replacement. It has held the door since.
Glad I'm not the only one with this problem. This has motivated me to work on mine. I've been living with it, but it does bother me too. Thanks for the advice on this.
The left part of the loop is the important part. it serves as a shim between the leftmost part of the spring and the big, blue vertical thingy. So all you're doing is just shoving a shim in there to make the spring shorter overall.