Okay, I got me an air compressor and some tools for that. My brother is sending me an engine hoist and lift next week. I got the **** passenger fender off and unloaded about 5 pounds of dirt and leaves from behind the firewall (through a 3 inch hole no less!) Now I need a MIG welder. A client of mine that used to be an electrician said that the smallest Craftsman unit I could get would work fine for body work and floor pans and such, as long as I wasn't trying to weld anything too thick. I was at a Tractor Supply Company today and found this:
I need to know if that will do what I need it to do and was looking for some advice. I am anxious to start doing some actual restoration on the car but I need all the tools first.
Not sure who makes "Farmhand", if they're chinese junk or made by Miller, etc. I'd go Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln with gas (75Ar-25CO2). My Hobart Handler 140 (115V) works great. The whole setup including bottle of gas was less than $700. Don't go cheap chinese if you can avoid it.
Thanks. It is actually made by Campbell Hausefield (sp?) I know its not the best thing in the world, but I have to make sure my wife keeps calling it "your car" instead of "that car." Know what I mean?
If it's made by campbell hausfeld try to find out about the warranty. 20% of duty cycle is a basic machine, Dont put it to max power because you're going to make some HOLES!!!
This is stong enough for what you have to do!!!! For the quality it depends on your $$$$$$$
Ive said it before and Ill say it again...a welding machine is NOT an area you can cut corners!!! If youre going to buy one, save yourself a lotta headaches and buy a good one. If you cant afford a good one right now, then dont buy one until you CAN afford a good one. You can find a decent machine for $500-700 to do anything automotive, but if you try to save a few bucks by buying a cheap one, youll just be asking for problems down the road.
That Craftsman unit that Sears sells for $399 is a good unit. I purchased that welder and did ALL the welding on my car with it. Floorpan, firewall, lower cowl, A/C block-off plate, subframe repair, exhaust system, etc).
I never had a problem. I can attest to the durability of this unit....as I tipped over the whole stand and the welder hit the ground HARD, but kept right on going.
Plus it's a gas/gasless welder, and it doesn't weigh too much where you can't just drop it in your trunk and take it with you for those "on the road" repairs....
Highly recommended. But then again...what do I know. Oh yeah, maybe I know a bit. Check out my website below for all my work.
That'd be great, but that would mean less garage time for me and more for her. Plus, I do most of the heavy cooking around here anyway, so washing dishes is out, even if they are "ours."
BTW, I meant to say I got a Hobart Handler 125, not a 180. Should work either way though.
I have a cheap Chinese welder that I bought from Harbor Freight for $79, and it welds flawlessly if a flux core welder can weld flawlessly. (Actually, it was supposed to have been on sale for more, but someone screwed up when setting up the price.) I'm on my third spool of wire and haven't had any problems. The complaint with cheap welders is the duty cycle. For what you're doing, a low duty cycle is fine.
Different welders, different guage metal, and technique makes it so that you set the settings at any particular formula. For instance, the low setting on my welder doesn't provide adequate penetration unless you dwindle on the area. I have found that full power and full wire speed is the only way to go. And I control the heat by the speed I move across the area. An auto-dim sheild helps with heat control because you can pull out take a look and plug the mig wire right back into molten metal.
Spend some time practicing on scrap metal of the same guage you will be welding.
I second Trauschu (Thomas). the Craftsman unti works GREAT. I've used it for floors, quarters, subframe connectors, frame rail repairs (on a rustang) etc....love the gas.