Anyone tried or currently using the EB 1407 Carb? Its a 750 manual choke. New one goes for $240 or so. A pal of mine has a slightly used one he's trying to get me to buy (and put on the shelf as a spare). EB website says its matched for a Torker II manifold (which I have on the shelf as well :p ).
Peanut gallery comments would be appreciated.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Jon, what type of calibration work? re-jetting? Major tune session? I have a Holley 3310 on my mild 455 now, and have an EB 1407 I was going to put on it for a while until I can get the Q-jet I have built or set up for my car or get another Q-jet (the Q-Jet I have is a BB Chevy, but center inlet)
But now you have me wondering if I should even try the Edelbrock at all? If you have a chance, could you elaborate a little?
Brett, I have the carb for your engine, '71 455 center inlet, carb #7041262 XA, complete rebuild all stock specs using one of The Carburetor Shop's Level 2 kits, complete except vent cap $225
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I don't mean to hijack the thread but I have a Edelbrock 1910 - 850 CFM carb that I am going to put on my 68 400. Is this a good carb or will it take work to make it run well.
I have a Edel 1411 which works very well on my 400. It did take a lot of work re-jetting, rods and springs and bigger squirters. You'll need the calibration kit. Car idles well and will fry the tires all the way through second gear so I'd say it works OK
Oh Vikki... don't do that to me! Lol... Yes, I'd love to pick that up, and that's a great price... it's just that we have a baby due mid August, and I won't be spending any money for about a year... or until we get a handle on all the related expenses. (unless you want to trade it for a BB Chevy truck carb and an Edelbrock 750?) Lol...
But I'll check with you when the time comes, or if I sell something and can raise the "extra" funds!
But good to know that it would work... but it just takes some work to get it right for the Poncho.
Carburetion can be anything from a set of 2 Carter AFB's (high end) to a 15 year-old sitting on the hood and pouring gasoline into the engine out of a boot (low end???).
Most carburetors will fall in-between the above.
The e-clones are basically the Federal Mogul rework of the Carter aftermarket carburetors for Chevrolet engines.
To make the ORIGINAL Carter aftermarket Chevrolet carburetors work WELL on a Pontiac engine, the following is generally necessary:
idle circuit - generally OK for engines up to a mild 400. 455's may require machining of the idle tubes, restrictors, idle air bleeds, and idle bypass. These are all pressed-in items. Hot 400's may require some of the mods for 455.
primary circuit - any Pontiac engine, different profile metering rods. jets may require changing, but jets are readily available. Vacuum pistons springs (again readily available) may need to be changed (the camshaft profile will determine this issue).
secondary circuit - jetting will require changing (again, jets are readily available). Hot 400's and 455's will REQUIRE a DIFFERENT auxillary air valve (an older Pontiac AFB makes a good donor, and one may also be able to use the metering rods). Failure to change the air valve will pretty much guarantee a hesitation when hitting the secondaries (hot 400's and 455's).
pump circuit - 455's may require modification, generally OK for 400's.
floats, fuel valves, etc. - probably no problems.
The original Carters (due to different production standards) seem to be much less problematic than the later Federal Mogul produced Carters.
Nashville - please do not send peanuts! I love em, but they are no longer on my diet.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air Owner, The Carburetor Shop LLC
I think I have found the solution to the infamous Edel bog when going into the secondaries. I have seen tons of posts from carb gurus who all seem to say it's incurable and to use a different carb. Or change the auxillary air valve as carbking states above - though I've never heard of that one.
I had this issue at one time and after going through the whole carb when I had it on my work bench I noticed that the secondaries from the factory open up VERY quickly. To me this didn't seem right. I am by no means a carb expert and I wish I had more technical information. But if you go to punch it and the secondaries open up too quickly too much air will come in and create a massive lean condition - or bog.
By playing around with the opening and the closing of the throttle I noticed this little "s" or "u" shaped rod that connects to the secondaries on the passenger side. Take that off and bend it. (this was years ago and to be honest I'm 50% sure I bent it so the 2 ends were closer together But after this I put the rod back on and voila - the primaries opened up and the secondaries now did not open until about 3/4 WOT where before it was like 1/4 WOT.
To sum it up this carb that I was about to throw away runs very well. I definitely want to get a nice Q-Jet in the future, but for now I'm not really in a rush to dump it. It may be worth a shot for someone experiencing this issue. Results may vary Good luck.
Windward - an interesting post. Trial (and possibly error ) can always be enlightening. In your case, it appears to have worked to your satisfaction.
Adjusting the throttle operating rod such that the ends are closer will cause the secondaries to open sooner.
Adjusting the throttle operating rod such that the ends are further away from each other will slow down the timing of the secondaries, but could also result in the secondaries not opening to the full position, drastically reducing the CFM of the carburetor (sometimes not a bad thing).
Carter built 505 different AFB carburetors when Carter was still in control. I don't count the Federal Mogul/Carter remakes or those produced by Weber USA or the e-clones in this count. I have specifications on most of the original Carter units.
One of the "calibration" pieces used by Carter was the auxillary air valve. I first noticed this when researching the SD 421 dual quad carbs about 35 years ago, and noticed that the dual quad air valves were much heavier and much flatter than other air valves which I had observed. This caused me to research further, and I found that, IN GENERAL, Carter used a smaller angle (flatter) on the airvalve on "torquer" engines to delay the initial opening rate of the airvalve. The "screamer" engines used a much more agressive angle, to whip the airvalve open sooner.
Unfortunately for those of us who bleed Pontiac Blue, Carter's aftermarket sales were primarily "bowtie"; thus the aftermarket carbs were calibrated for bowtie engines.
On a related issue; many who install an aftermarket carburetor are looking for power. This can be accomplished by supplying an A/F ratio that is in the 11~15 range. Generally, for street driving, an A/F ration this low is not necessary, and owners of these carbs often experience much worse fuel economy than is necessary (definately an issue with today's fuel prices). A carburetor which is carefully selected and calibrated for a specific application should be capable of both excellent power and/or excellent economy, depending on the desires of the driver.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air Owner, The Carburetor Shop LLC
Good poop here, thanks for the posts. I just spent the 4th July weekend out climbing in Yosemite and wasn't able to check the comments. If the neighbor basically gives me the carb for pocket change I'll buy and keep as a bench project.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?