I am prepping my hood just to get something done and got it sanded down and smooth. I sprayed on a couple of coats of Rustoleum primer just to protect from the elements while I put on filler in a couple of small pin holes and dings. My question is, when I get ready to put on the final primer, should this stuff come off. I figured that it'd be okay to leave it. Anyone have any experience with this? Also, it was not an aerosol can. I mixed with thinner out of the can and sprayed it myself. Here is the product description.

http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=26&SBL=1&dds=16

Later,
Zappa1

It would be safe to try paint on a small area first. I have had 'fish eye' when painting over some Rustoleum products.

Check your product infor sheet for your primer surfacer. It should state whether or not it can be applied over that product. If not call the tech line. They will know for sure. I would imagine with any good quality primer product, if you scuff it first with some 180 prior to surfacing it should adhere. Hope that helps

I also had some trouble painting over some Rustoleum. I tried to use some semi-gloss black Krylon over a previously painted semigloss black Rustoleum and it started to bubble in spots. I had to remove quite a bit of it and sand the area down.

That's because most Rustoleum has an oil base. It's great for rustproofing all by itself. The oil in it causes most paints to do strange things.

It seems that the Jims have been down that road too. Rustoeum is fine by itself, but it doesn't like other tyes of paint.

I glanced at the product description. The bottom line is that it's rattle can paint. You can get away with rattle can on automotive paint as a half @$$ed, cheap alternative to do patch up work, as I have done with my car. But you cannot use rattle can paint, then follow up with automotive paint.

Then I guess this stuff will be coming off prior to the application of a good final primer. I should have suspected that, but at least its good for a guide coat and keeping rust off while I'm getting it ready. And a $8 a quart, its quite the deal.

Later,
Zappa1

Zappa, be sure to get all of it off the car and scrub the car down with wax and grease remover such as Dupont 3909S or PPG DX330. If you've not done it yet, disassemble your paint gun and wash out the passages with lacquer thinner.

No problem on the cleaning of the air gun. If you want to get it really clean, totally disassemble and soak all parts (except any rubber or plastic) in a vat of MEK. As far as degreasing, I use some glue and adhevive remover that Wilsonart used to make. I have a couple of cases my dad got me when he worked there. It's already in a spray can and it gets EVERYTHING off. I wish I could get some more.

Later,
Zappa1

Strip the hood COMPLETELY before you have a paint shop shoot it. Let them choose and shoot the primer prior to final paint coats. The new paints being used today have terrible reactions with other chemicals.

And if you have a hood tach with a few layers of different things (primer, paint, etc) pull the tach off the hood, strip it down completely and have them paint the tach and hood seperately.

I just went through this last year and paid the price for not doing the above.

When you say strip completely, that dosen't count body filler, does it? There are a couple of small dings that I cant get to with a hammer so I'm filling them in. That should be okay, right?

Later,
Zappa1

I meant strip down to smooth bare, whether its metal or filler. Plenty of folks paint over filler.

My problem was that the primer that came on the new hood had a reaction with the gloss black paint the shop sprayed on. They had to scrub the whole thing down to metal, then acid-treat, then applied new primer that got along with their gloss paint. This is MAACO we're talking about here. The final job turned out extremely professional, but it took 2-3 tries.

The new fiberglass tach came to me with semi-gloss black paint from the manufacturer, and had to be sanded completelely down by hand prior to new primer and paint. Otherwise the **** thing kept bubbling up 1-2 hours after paint was applied.

Remove the old filler that had Rustoleum sprayed on it. It may have absorbed some oil. Then put in fresh filler. That way, none of the Rustoleum oil will linger in old filler and cause failure.