I usually try Ames 1st as they are very honest about how good the piece is.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Pete, I happen to have a very nice rust free deck lid that I found in my shed...I bought it years ago at a local swap meet If you are doing a restoration, I strongly suggest you use an original one and not a repop. PM me if you still need one and have any interest in it.
Pete, I would think that you'd want an original rather than a repop for the reason that drilling for the P-O-N-T-I-A-C letters would be a nightmare (if you wanted to have the letters).
Sorry this took two days, had to dig the box out of the barn:
Below are pics of a new 67-68 trunk made by Goodmark. I bought it from Greenwood Chevy website, but lots of places sell them.
Quality is exceptionally good, and the part is about 20 percent heavier than my original. No PONTIAC letter pre-drills though. I bought it last year when I ordered the T/A spoiler, just in case I scewed up the drilling!
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Bill, my reference to drilling was in relation to the spoiler mount holes, not the lettering holes.
I agree, that'd be quite a challenge to get right, and I'd look at alternatives like you mentioned before attempting to drill the lettering holes.
I'm sorry to here some of you have bought inferior trunk lids over the years, but I assure you this one is solid as a rock, possibly to the point where it is too heavy compared to the original. We all know that every body panel source is different, and quality changes every year.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
The trouble with used trunk lids is that the adhesive that bonds the outer skin to the inner structure cracks and falls away. In turn, the lid has a tinny, echo sound when it's shut. i think the reason the repops are heavier is because it has the adhesive there. I took my origial one and seperated the two halves and re-bonded them together. I don't reccommend it, it was a mutha, but it's REALLY nice now! It no longer caves in when pressed on and has a nice thud sound when shut.
The issue with mine is that I can see surface rust in the inter frame work but can't get to it to clean it. It would stink for the rust to come through after spending $$$$ on a good paint job.