First, what is a good sturdy type of drill bit to buy? It seems like I destroy a lot of bits doing all kinds of metal/wood drilling. They usually start drilling fine but soon dull and overheat. I have tried using oil but that doesn't seem to help the drilling much or preserve the bit. Maybe I should have a specific cutting oil???
Second, is there a good bit sharpener available? I've tried a couple over the years but either I get the angles wrong, the sides assemtrical or perhaps I've overheated the bit so much drilling that the temper is shot.
I've been using the DeWalt self-piloting "titanium" bits on old growth oak and steel with great success. They are a little aggressive on aluminum and very soft woods, unless you hold back on the drill they tend to spiral in. They cut through sheet steel very quickly. I've used several other brands but the DeWalt seem to deliver the best performance and durability for the price.
I have a box of steel drills and taps that were my grandfather's when he worked in tool and die. There are probably 1000 bits in the box including many carbide tips. The carbide tipped bits work well, but the steel bits dull quickly. Both are worthless on wood.
I don't resharpen bits except wood boring spades. They never seem as sharp as new, and the edge doesn't last long.
Just my observations and opinions...
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Drill speed is a factor. Rule of thumb is the smaller the bit the faster the drill speed. Be careful with heat. You can easily 'work harden' the metal you are drilling. Take your time and keep your tool cool. Any kind of lubricant that is designed for cutting is good, I like 'Cool Tool' brand. Not just oil, cutting oil. The amount of pressure you apply is also a factor. Some materials like a lot of pressure to get the cut started. I was drilling through a car frame and if I used a 2x4 to pry pressure on the back of my drill it went through like butter. Black and Decker has a good sharpener that keeps the angle just right. I believe it's in the $50 range.
The very best advice I can give is always start with a very small bit and work your way up to the size for the hole. I rarely start with anything bigger than 3/16 inch. For example; If I want a half inch hole I'll use 3/16 then 5/16 then 1/2.
get a slower drill, less heat on the bit and it will cut faster and better. One other small thinh dont press to much on it!!! you cant get a drill bit angle gauge and a good grinder.
You can tell patvac hasn't ever used a drill press! Slower and less pressure is not not rule of thumb. Trust me, I've put my time in at the machine shop. Like 10 years! Every drilling operation has a specific speed and pressure recommended. If you want to get it just right, get out your machinists handbook. I wouldn't recommend sharpening drills with a grinder unless you are an expert toolmaker.
Jim made some great points. I recommend a small drill press for the garage. Not only does it really help drill straight, on target, better and faster, the multi-speed presses come with charts that show what speed to use for what materials.
And I agree with most everyone above, consider drill bits to be disposable.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
With drill bits, there is no "one size fits all". There are different grades (steel, carbide, diamond, etc.); and there are different angles. I know we have at least 4 different drill sets of S.A.E. drills, plus individual metric drills, left-handed drills, wood drills, etc.
Best advice I could give is to determine the type job you will be doing most often, and purchase bits for that type of job.
Heat is the enemy of longevity in drill bits. There is a correct speed, a correct pressure, and often a correct lubricant for each job.
As to sharpening bits for the hobbyist: the cheap bits can be sharpened, but I have better things to do with my time for the money. The harder, more expensive bits are more difficult to sharpen.
We consider ALL drill bits to be disposable (we don't sharpen any of them).
A machinists handbook or even a good high school shop textbook is a worthwhile read.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air Owner, The Carburetor Shop LLC
Thanks for all the good ideas. Part of my problem is buying the on-sale bits at the local store and part of my problem is previously not accepting the fact that they are disposable items.
I do use speeds somewhat correctly as I recall my school shop metals class. (But vaugely since it was over 40 years ago.)
I will be getting some proper cutting oil and a couple sets of bits. One being some of those DeWalt titanium bits for metals and a new set of cheaper bits for wood and soft materials. And, I can clean out a drawer in the basement that contains numerous dull bits that I "knew" I would sharpen one day.
Check out B&A Manufacturing at http://www.bamanufacturing.com You may have to inquire about local stocking distributors. By the way, they are made in the USA.
With hardened bits such as cobalt, be careful to keep the drill steady. The harder bits are more brittle and wobbling the drill can cause the cutting edge of the bit to chip.
I've been drilling stuff as an adult for a LONG time now. And I have what we all have; a few drawers or boxes full of drill bits from over the years. Funny thing is, other than my concrete bits (which seem to always work when asked to), I never trust my "Box o bits" and always buy new ones when there is an important project to be dealt with.
Why do we (men) hang on to all those old, unreliable bits? Why can't we suck it up and throw the [censored] useless used bits away? Why must we continue to horde them as if they'll someday magically be sharp and useable again? I dunno. Do YOU know??
I realize this is a question we probably prefer not to deal with or answer, but maybe theres a shrink out there with a plausible answer........
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Sounds like BOTH of you need a Drill Doctor lol. I know when I first got mine, I sat there for more than an hour sharpening bits that Id refused to throw away over the years...I even found a couple of broken ones. But when I was through, it was like Id just bought 5 or 6 brand new sets of bits