I am draining my battery down somehow and Im hoping that someone can do a quick check for me.
Can someone please verify which fuses are constantly hot when the car is off and the key is removed.
Currently all large fuses on the left bank of my fuse block are constantly hot. and all others are not.
Thanks.

Mine are the same. I put a meter on them and the three long fuses on the left are hot and the little left and all right side are not.

un-hook the neg side of the battery
put a test light in between the post and and the grourd leg
if light glows start pulling fuses one at a time
when the light goes out that your short
mine was the voltage reg was shorted that was the last thing
i unpluged not conected to the fuses

good luck bill

Holy hot tamale Bill!!!

Are you telling me that this procedure will track down a voltage leak when the car is parked/stowed?

If your steps are true, you need to apply for a patent on the procedure my friend!

I'm going to try your steps on my bird (which has a slow leak that kills the battery in 2-3 weeks when sitting). If this works, the Pope will be calling you shortly. I'm not kidding, this is comparable to the cure for common colds. I want this to work!!!

Mine also has a drain. I figure it is the combination of the clock that gets a current hit to wind it every few seconds and the hidden audio which has a small but measurable drain to keep the settings memory.

My solution, disconnect the battery when not in use. It is a pain to have to reset the clock and radio, however.

Holy Crap,,,, nice idea!
I quote the Guiness light guys here "BRILLIANT"

Thanks a lot Jim, I just wanted to make sure I wasnt chasing gremlins.

Joe, I went out and took some additional meter readings. Mine draws 45-50 mA with an unmeasurable spike every 30 seconds. I disconnected the Hidden Audio and the draw was zero but still has the spike for the original windup clock. At that rate, I figure a little more than an Amp Hour is drawn from the battery each day.

I don't know what the AH rating of my repro R59 battery is since they now rate them in CCA. If it is close to the old 61 AH capacity that used to be quoted, a new fresh R59 will die totally in less than two months of sitting. (Assuming I've done the math correctly.)

Does any one know why my signal indicators on dash would come on and stay on when I pull the light switch to park position. Tail lights work fine but front park lamps do not.

Bad ground.

Bad ground on the housings of the front running lights.

does anyone know what fuse types go in to the fuse block under the dash. I just replaced the under dash harness. It indicates fuse size but not AGC or SFE?

Here's what the '68 uses. If you have the '67 Owner's Manual, it should be in there.

man thanks alot. That is a great help.
Gus

Right on! A little bit of SFE and AGC. Though I've never found anyone that could properly explain to me the difference between the two classifications.

I know that all are rated at 32 volts, but some can handle up to 250 volts for various applications.

A main difference is that the SFE fuses are different lengths for different current sizes. The AGCs are all the same 1 1/4" length.

They are both said to be fast acting fuses but you can compare the current to time graphs if you want to see if there are different current limit charactistics to them.
http://www.bussmann.com/library/bifs/2059.PDF
http://www.cooperet.com/library/products/AGC_Specs.PDF