Street or race? I ran some really stiff front springs for a little while and liked it a lot. I was thinking of upping the front sway to a 1" to try to get some of that back w/ my 380lb springs. I don't see the need for a rear bar on my car yet. Even with ~700lb ft springs it didn't push much on the street. That was with all rubber mounts. I don't know as much as I let on. TOHCan is the sway guru AFAIK.
Scott, because our cars were designed 'way back when, the front suspension has what's know as a positive camber curve. When the car leans in a corner, the outside wheel ends up leaning even farther out at the top. This results in the outside edge of the tire trying to keep the car on the road instead of the whole tread face. By keeping the car from leaning, more of the tire is in contact with the road which helps traction, even if the spring rate is much higher than would be recommended for a more modern suspension design (with a negative camber curve). Your 700 lb springs helped in that way. Of course, the ride suffers! By using a big sway bar to keep the car flat and using "normal" springs you get a good ride and handling at the same time. A better suspension design would use lighter springs and sway bars.
I think Vikki bought a sway bar on Ebay recently for a reasonable price. I'll bet she did her research beforehand and knows some sources and prices. I have Addco bars on my '69, 1 inch front and 3/4" rear along with 300 lb front springs. It handles and rides quite well! Don't forget the other part, good shocks! Most have recommended KYB's which I like as well.
The cheapest sway bars that I found were the Addco bars at about $180 each. Check for 67-69 Firebird and Camaro, and 68-74 Nova (Ventura, Apollo, and Omega), they interchange. You might get lucky and find a set of sway bars from a '74 GTO - but not likely.
I paid somewhere around $150 for a 1" bar with poly bushings and end links on eBay. You may need to replace the stock bolts and spacers if your ride height is not exactly stock. The ends of the bar should be parallel to the ground when installed, after jouncing to settle the suspension. Check after driving.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I got a 1" front with poly bushings, bolts and spacers for $120 from my local supplier, can't remember the name of it but I still have the paperwork at home. I'll try to remember to bring it in. No ca-puter at home.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
I bought an entire suspension kit from Performance Suspension Components in AZ. It came with Hellwig bars. I have already installed the rear and currently have the front suspension torn out.
One note on installing a rear bar when there previously was not one installed. There were 2 options on how to mount the innner mounts to the frame rails. If your car was origianlly equipped, there are tapped holes with tapping plates to bolt to the bottom of the rail. If those holes are not tapped, you use a sandwich bracket on the sides of the frame. Mine were not tapped so I bought nuts with an integrated flange, drilled out the holes and welded the nuts in place. Its a much cleaner look than the sandwich bracket.
I think Ricks First Gen carries the Hellwig bars.
I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
![[Linked Image from imageshack.us]](http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/turd2.png/)
