Has any one a good close up photo of the Gills. tried them on tonight and mine seem to be sitting high. tried them the other direction...same thing. More evident on the top.

May have something to do with the stamping of possibly a repro quarter panel or excessive primer build up in that area. Have you compared the old chevrons over the new ones?

You may have to check those high areas with a spectragooglemometer. Actually, it is an instrument my friend has that can gauge metal, primer and paint thickness with a laptop computer and a penlike instrument. I don't know what he calls it.

If you are fine on the lower, high on the upper, try the lower chevrons (ones that fit) on the upper. If they don't fit, you may have to tweek those uppers for a fit.

Remember the repro pieces are not exactly the same dimensions. Measure them with a micrometer and lay an old one next to a new one and you may see a difference depending on the vendor.

LOL @ spectragooglemometer
While were on the subject of chevrons....I noticed on the parts numbers on mine, at the end, theyre numbered 1,2,3, and 4. Whats this denote? I have like five 1s, five 2s, ten 3s, and twelve 4s, and I cant notice any difference in any of them

I believe they are casting "control" numbers. There could be however many dies..just numbered and the bad ones remelted.

Kinda like Haynes inspector number 12.

With injection molded plastic parts those numbers represent what cavity of the tool the part was molded in.

Same with castings.

The issue here is height on the panel, not paint thickness (my fault, should have been clearer)

The photo below shows it (albeit poorly) sorry for the blow up..it's the only shot I had here at work.

The gills are original and the panel as well. The weld point for the new panel was between the gills and the fender wells.

This is odd!

Those chevrons look bent up..to me.

38th picture down..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pont...ryZ6420QQihZ012QQitemZ220085982595QQrdZ1

Another picture of chevrons close up..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pont...ryZ6420QQihZ004QQitemZ140087067762QQrdZ1

Last picture all the way down..good shot
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pont...ryZ6420QQihZ009QQitemZ190084833811QQrdZ1

Maybe the chevrons casting proccess made them a smidge long?

Took measurements from the 5 67-8 Firebirds I have at the house. They all measured in at 4.5" or a hair below..4.470"

You nay have a part thickness issue Dave. fat on one end, thin on the other..You may have to get some old chevrons and take measurements and file and buff as needed.

I, too, wonder if they are bent. If they were installed with the barrel clips--the push on hodgemoes--they were probabaly bent up during removal. Myself, I would pukey something on before using the kamakazi clips.

Hindsight for you and something for reference for people in projects. This has been a common topic for a number of year, but it's still dieregarded, so I'll do it in upper case.

ALL--MEANING ALL--PARTS MUST BE MOCK FITTED WHILE THE CAR IS IN ROUGH METAL.

One of two options...

Buy some original NOS or very good used chevrons and see how they fit..

Or measure, file and buff for fit.

And #3, find your old set or a used set of originals for comparison. The new ones are softer and more pliable. The originals are quite stiff.

As mentioned above, these are original (I buffed them up), and yes they require a bit of straightening.

I'll check the measurements for a start tonight.

Not sure in this case grinding and buffing will work, as it would have to be the visible top portion, not sure if under the chrome the pot metal will buff up? I suppose one could rechrome them.

That's why I thought this was odd, NOS gills, NOS orig sheet metal, does not compute!

I actually did test fit most items. Even these and had noted them as an odd fit, but that particular issue got lost in the melee.

OK, so the "gill" area is original sheet metal? Or has this been replaced or at some point (original, NOS or repop) or straightened after a collision? You can get the outer skin straight after a collision, but the indentations are a different story. That piece can look straight by eye and gauge, but the inner portions (each of the 6) are a PITA to reform after a minor dent.

I don't know..If you replace the uppers (ones that fit) with the lowers, what is the result? As well, measure the depth and length of the upper gills..I say take some "Pam", spray on the gill areas in question and take some modeling clay impressions of the uppers and lowers and measure the difference.

Affirmative, original, no prev. damage. The cut line was done as shown on this photo.

The lower ones fit "better", but not perfect. Let me do some more investigation tonight. I should be able to get pretty good measurements with calipers.

I found the chevrons to fit tight in the allowed spaces. I bought the Trim Parts reproductions and they are as close as one could expect to some originals that I had. However, there is a difference between early '67 chevrons and late '67, '68 chevrons that could be causing your problem. Take a look half way down on this page of my website: http://john.my67.net/partstrivia.htm

Thanks John, I'll be home ina couple hours, will look in to this in depth and report!

If I can help with measurements, let me know.

Ok, the pieces are casting # 7747715, odd that it is the same # as Johns trimxx repro..length is correct per Banshees measurement. Sure they were original tho as I took a long time bringing tjhem back.

Now looking closely it appears the holes are out... WTF..? I am sure the gill sheet metal is original and the previous photo after the sheet work was done clearly showed the splice aft of the gills...now I'm stumped.

Any ideas? looks like either I drill the holes to relocate or grind off some of the gill....don't think the latter will work tho.

FYI; When I had the passenger quarter replaced (not the side with the above picture) I found the new repro quarter's upper level chevron holes were about 1/8 inch too low I had to use a drill to elongate the a bit. The lower were perfect and the chrome lined up perfectly.

Dave, the repro in Hammereds pics has the same number as the original one in the middle, but is missing the S - 1 (or 2, 3, or 4) that comes after it. And the holes in your panel look to me like theyre centered at the very bottom of the groove. Mine are clearly on the flat part of one side. Maybe that could be the problem?

Look at where the posts sit on Hammered pics top chevron S-1 versus the other 2..
http://john.my67.net/partstrivia.htm
The bottom two are not on the edge. The top chevron will cause a fitment problem.

And to answer question 2 in the trivia, fender gussets..

1967 Camaro gussets.

Find a 67 Camaro and you will see what the "extra" hole is for.

Mine are S4's situated in the middle. But look at what I just found...went thru my old pre restoration photos..Bingo. same fit issues!!

This is odd.. I think I may have to move the holes and be VEDDY VEDDY careful..then seal the paint...

This may or may not relate to the problem you experience, but I have had experience with the original, the GM replacements, and the aftermarket knockoffs.

Look here for some detailed info:
http://www.geocities.com/bobtrimpe/Page19_louver_review.html

Regards,
Bob Trimpe

Bob: The better repros are from Trim Parts. I saw the long stud cheapos locally and they will cause problems.

Tom: The Camaro doesn't use those gussets. There is a filler panel in front of the hood that bolts to the fenders where the gussets would.

I'll try a pic. Here are mine. I got a repro set. I'd have to look for who I got them from.