guys....you have been great with the help before, but i must once again pick your brains. today while removing the old leaf springs out of my bird, my buddy and i encountered a couple of issues.
1) i got a sway bar set from jegs by Suspension Technologies. cant for te life of me figure out where the ends of the sway bar get bolted on to. is there a place where i can get detailed instructions on how to install this item?
2) the bracket that holds the leaf springs to the car (not the ones that bolt on at the rear of the car, the other ones) are attached to the car by 2 bolts on each side and what appears to be a small weld. there are three bolt holes on this bracket, only two are being used. is this the correct set up? and if so, am i supposed to cut through the weld, mount the new springs and somehow get it re welded to the car?
3) how do you remove the old bushings from where the springs connect at the rear of the car. it looks as though i am purchasing new shackles for the springs. is there a special tool i need to use to get the rear bushings in the spring?

any help will do....your help is always appreciated.

I just changed my springs a few weeks ago, my front mounts had all three bolts, no welds. sounds like yours has been "modified"
Your spring bushings are two piece although they are probably stuck together. a little prying and your rear bushings that go through the frame will come out, also two piece. Check your new bushings and you will see that they are two pieces. make sure there is no pressure on the springs when you take the old ones off. I don't have a sway bar @ this point.

I've done mine. Jack the car up and support with jack stands. Remove the wheels (had to include that). Then place a floor jack under the spring perch and lift enough to remove the rear shackle bolt. Drop the backs of the springs before taking the front eye brackets off. There should be three bolts on each eye bracket. If yours are welded, it's because a PO probably ground off or cut a bolt at some time and couldn't get a new captive nut in the frame rail. The bushings in the rear should just slip into the end of the spring. I'm not sure about the rear sway bar. I haven't put one on my 69 (yet).

The ends of the anti roll bar attach to the frame rails through a link like on the front sway bar.







My anti roll bar is not the same as yours. I'd like to compare mine to yours. What is the part # from Jeg's?

As Rocky wrote, there should be three bolts holding the front spring perch to the sub-frame. Do you have a picture of the area in question?

The rear sub-frame bushings are a PITA! At least mine were... and I had my fuel tank out for replacement. As stated, the bushings are two pieces, probably cemented together by age.

I cut mine out with my trusty Dremmel and reinforced cut off wheel. Once the old bushings were out, I had to deal with the rust in the hole where the bushing goes. My new poly graphite bushings wouldn't go in until I removed the rust.

I had to buy an angle drill attachment to get in the very tight area between the outer frame rail and the inner fender to clear out the hole.

You shouldn't have any problem with installing the bushings to the springs. The front bushing should already be pressed in the spring.

Give a shout if you run into any more bumps in the road.

My rear sway bar has a bracket the needed to get bolted to the frame. There is a hole in the bottom of the frame rail. Appearantly some vehicles had a tapping plate in that hole...mine did not. My instructions said to put a clevis braket around the frame and drill a hole in the side of the frame rail. Instead, I used a threaded insert and welded it to the bottom of the frame rail. This mount carries the drop link. The ends of the sway bar attach at the spring perch on the u-bolts.

I don't have a photo handy, if you need one, I will get it but it may take a day or so, my car doesn't sleep at my house. If there are more specific questions, let them fly. Maybe I can talk enough to explain it.

so if it is welded.....any suggestions?

I just looked at Jeg's website, the bar they show is different than mine. The one in the pic on the website has the hole for the link at the end of the bar. My bar ends bolt to the spring perch and my drop links are about 25% inboard.

Sorry.

If you are talking about the front mount being welded you eill need to cut, grind, chisel it off whatever will work in your situation. Just don't go nuts and ruin things,look @ it and think first, after and when you are done repeat this step. replace captive nuts and bolts (should come in your install kit)I think I have a few extras.

i got the leafs at national parts depot. all they gave me were the two leaf springs no other hardware.

I ordered the captive nuts from one of the parts houses. It came as a kit with the bolts (leaf spring front eye bracket kit). The captive nut brackets have an angle to them that slip into the elongated, rectangular holes in the frame rail just above where the bolt goes through on the inside hole and the floor pan on the outside and front. Do not over tighten these as the captive nut tends to break away from the bracket. If this has already happened with the bolts you have remaining, you will need to grind the heads off to remove the eye brackets. As Rick said, carefully cut the weld holding the eye bracket to the frame rail.

Install Kit is EXTRA imagine that. It will provide what you need though.

i ordered a new set of front brackets from classic industries today. no bolts included. does anyone know where i can get a set?

The four-leaf spring kit I ordered from Tamraz last year came with absolutely Everything one needs for a complete replacement. No joke, every piece and part that you need to completely replace your original springs and all associated hardware.

that is where I got my springs and kit w/ everything needed...

yeah.....well does anyone know where i can get a set of bolts?

Tamraz has the kit seperate. e-bay about 85. bolts,pads, bushings,captive nuts the whole sh*t and kaboodle.

ok....just picket up a set of bolts at national parts depot for 13 bucks.

Classic Industries has the captive nuts (J clips) part number 378276 for $1.79 each. I suppose you can pick up the proper grade bolts at any hardware store.