How hard of a job is this? I have already replaced the upper and lower ball joints, shocks and the upper A-arm bushings. I wasnt able to find a spring compression tool that looked like it would work so I stopped. With my new V8 in the front instaed of the L6 the car is riding low and it is obvious I need heavier springs. Also since all my under carriage work the car seems to be riding very rough. I may be the solid body bushings. Any ideas to soften the ride?

It's a doable job -- I've had mine in and out several times and I'm not that experienced. You only need a spring compressor to install the springs, not take them out. Follow the service manual. Eastwood and other companies sell a quality product. Stay away from the "Made in China" brands. The spring is very dangerous when compressed.

The major PITA to me was getting it compressed enough so that the lower A-arm can be positioned correctly and getting the spring oriented properly in the pocket. More than once I had to start over because one of the arms of the compressor got stuck between the spring and the pocket when I loosened it!

John

The threaded rod (use hardened alloy rod) method seems to work the best. Use 1/2" threaded rod through the shock holes. Most of the spring compressors won't fit in the springs well enough. I've changed mine that way, although all the front sheet metal was off at the time.

As for the ride: These are poorly designed cars, and compared to most other vehicles, they fall in the real pos catagory. Even so, I luv'em

I used the rod method as well, and found it easier than the spring compressor I was dealing with.

As for the ride Amervo, I find they ride quite well, only deteriorating after I start the engine.

I think the verts ride is much better than the coupes due the heavier body and vibration dampeners.

Joe, new springs are positively in need of replacement! You have added a lot of weight up front and your alignment is out. Solid body bushings... yea that will transmit lack of a comfy ride. If solid mounts are your choice, buy some Preparation H.

If you do take on this task, be very careful. A compressed spring carries a LOT of energy. An internal compressor will work. You will have to disassemble it once the spring is in place.

If you use the threaded rod you can do it in such a way that there is almost no danger of the spring letting loose. I like to totally remove the lower control arm.

Go to an autoparts store. Most will have spring compressors you can borrow. Just pull the shocks and weave the compressor through the hole. It is a PITA, but it works in a home garage. As above says - BE CAREFUL I kept the car jack under the lower control arm until I was ready to take the spring out. After the compressor did its job.

Good luck!

That's the easy part...getting the spring out. When I go to put it back in I put the threaded rod through the top shock hole, down through the spring and out through the bottom control arm. Crank down on that stack and install. You need something for a big washer on the bottom under the controll arm. Make sure you treat that rod good and oil it. It will be plently strong enough if you don't abuse it. This method elimanates the posibility of those POS rented/borrowed spring compressors. The last ones I borrowed from Auto Zone had "Broken Fingers In A Box" stenciled on the cover of the box........ Safety is priceless and so is a pain free spring job!

I think Jim wrote some excellent advice. You can't hold the spring more securely and more safely than with quality 5/8-11 threaded rod through the center. Spring compressors can shift and this can turn into a dangerous job. Here's what I did, just like Jim is describing. This is not home center allthread. I bought it from an industrial supplier.

Here's a view of the underneath back up plate.

I'll be attempting this soon, also. How long should the threaded rod be?

They usually sell it in 3 foot lengths.

I think my 5/8-11 was 3 foot and I saw no reason to cut it down.

Bronzebird, when you do this, back up the lower control arm with a steel plate and washers as in my photo. At the top, I used a length of 1" pipe and more washers to extend the nut where wrenches to could easily reach. Use grade 8 nuts, just to be safe. You're only using this stuff a few times, but this is not the application to use dime store hardware. As Jim mentioned, oil or grease on the allthread will prevent wear and tear. I used mobile 1 synthetic grease since that's handy around here.

Don't forget you need to bust the spindle loose first. That's easier done with the help of the spring pressure but with the threaded rod in position to contain the spring. Undo the ball joint nuts one or two turns. Apply a tie rod tool and wack the side of the spindle. It will pop loose with a loud clunk. Do the other one the exact same way. BTW, this spindle refused to come off with a pickle fork but the tie rod puller and the hammer wack did the job. I lost a lot of time fiddling with the useless pickle fork. If you don't have a case hardened one from the major tool truck guys, you're wasting time and money.



Once the spindles are loose, compress the spring by tighteneing the rod just enough to take pressure off the LCA bolts. Then remove the lower control arm bolts. Adjust the threaded rod compression so there is no pressure on the LCA bolts you're removing. They should come out easily. If they don't, add some PB Blaster and come back later. Then slowly lower the entire LCA by unthreading the nut. Here is the LCA lowered down by the allthread.



No beer while doing this job. Springs are very dangerous and you need to be alert for forces and problems.

Here's another picture. Assmbly of the new parts is the reverse of the disassembly, but much more fun. During assembly, rotate the spring until the tail of the spring is just in view of the inpection hole in the spring pocket of the frame.

Thanks BigBird the instructions and pictures are crystal clear. I should have done this when i had the fenders off but didnt think the weight difference between the small V8 with Alum heads and the cast iron 6 would be that much. Its more likely the springs are just tired after 40 years. BTW nice job on your bird! It looks great!

^ Ditto That!

I plan on taking apart my old suspension this weekend and the piece of mind I will have from a three foot piece of steel keeping the spring from jumping out (and removing my kneecap or worse) is a huge relief to me.


Kevin

I used a pickle fork on the ball joints, but I got nowhere beating on it with a regular hammer. I got a little short handled 3 lb sledge and whacked the fork and they came right apart. McMaster Carr might be the way to go to get quality 5/8 threaded rod. I used a spring compressor to install the new springs (cut the old ones with an angle grinder) but it didn't work very well. The threaded rod way looks like the way to go.

Good pictorial and advice! I too first tried the broken finger model and it let loose (lucky I had a safety chain also wrapped around it but it made a hell of a bang!

Thats when I opted for the rod route.