Now i know why car pulls to right side when apply brakes. Front left drum was coated with grease. Most likely from wheel bearing. Any cure from that happening again. Should I attempt to clean brake shoes or just replace because grease embedded in shoes.

dont take the chance buy new ones they dont cost that much. as for the grease in the drum , always install new seals and pack the bearings with a good high temp wheel bearing grease. and make sure the seal is seated proplery and not bent. some seals have a spring on the inside make sure if yours does have one that it dont come off as you install it, and of corse make sure it fits the spindel where it rides and that the spindel is not rough. I have been given the wrong seal many times

One of the many reasons why my front drums were one of the 1st things to go on my car.

Points for originality at cars shows are useless to me when my car is totaled and I'm dead.

BEST BET IS TO INSTALL NEW WHEEL CYLINDERS,SHOES AND GREASE SEALS.

Thanks to all. Should i do both sides for even wear and also go ahead and have drums turned.

always both sides.
i only turn drums if they are scored, tapered, or out of round, and i cant find a good replacment.
120 grit paper will prepare the drum for the new shoes.

I always turn drum and rotors when I do brake jobs. yes most of the time you can get away with out turning them but I dont like to take that chance. I even turn new ones also as they get out of shape a lot of time in shipping. I would not install a new drum on my front hub and not turn it. It cant be true with out turning it with the bearing races in the hub. And never just do one side. You buy them as a set install them as a set. A bad brake job can take a life.

I was alway's told there's no reason to turn drum's or rotor's because all's your doing is taking away meat unless you have a problem I.E. pulsation,squeeling e.t.c,

Now my inner bearing isn't coming off easily. Should I force it off and buy new so I can repack? And my cap is too long to go in drum Approx. 1" lip ( hits outer bearing before it bottoms out) Grind off excess on cap? Thanks for the help.

:rolleyes: Now it's all coming back. Forget about the inner seal and bearing. Forgot, it get attached to back of drum. Getting new. Should I smooth spindle a hair with steel wool, so bearing slides on and off but with no play?

you should clean the spindle. i usually use emery cloth.

do yourself a favor and buy a cheap bearing packer so you dont have to pack the grease in by hand. you'll spend about as much getting your hands clean otherwise.
also always replace the bearing race when you replace a bearing.

i stand by my statement on not turning drums and rotors which have no problems, and so do the vehicle manufacturers.
it uneccessarily removes metal, and often introduces excess runout on rotors (unless turned 'on car'), or a less than straight condition on drums, especially if using lathe adapters which have been thru hell and highwater. as most brakeshops have.
although turning new drums and rotors which are pressed onto the hub is recommended (on car only for rotors), new drum and rotor turning is otherwise uneccessary, and in my opinion, undesirable, and is not reccommended by quality part manufacturers.

If I remember right or wrong, a tool to set bearing race in evenly, or was that a big socket, tap gently and pray?

there is a tool.
you can use the old race in some cases, if it wont get stuck.
or a brass punch.
i've never used a socket, i guess it could work.
i think you can buy a driver set for about $15.

You could take your drums to a jobber like Car Quest or Autozone to get them turned AND have them put in a new bearing race. Cheaply, too.

Thanks all for the help. Time to test drive tomorrow. A little reverse stop adjust, and I be on the pavement.