What size fuse should run the convertible top? Also which plug exactly does the conv't wire plug into.
The reason I ask, is the plug seems to work only in the middle prong clk ltr___(20a fuse)___ctsy bat; is the fuse that keeps blowing. the middle prong operates on this fuse.
I have a feeling that my motor which is a larger motor than stock, that I modified the attachments to fit my draw more current than the stock motor.
That being said, I blow 20a fuses often. I have tried a 25a fuse, and it blows occasionally. I don't like running larger fuses than are designed for the circuit for obvious reasons, but.....
Does the plug go to a different place? I have tried other prongs that fit, with larger fuse capability, but the top does not operate there, or is there something else going on?
It should plug into an orange wire that feeds through the firewall to a 30 A breaker (mounted high and outboard of the brake master cylinder). Then a black wire runs from the other side of the breaker to the positive buss bar of your horn relay.
For a 69. Here's a pic. The orange wire plugs into an adapter that plugs into the power acc. prong. I used a breaker type 25 amp fuse so if someone holds the top button down I'm not changing fuses. :rolleyes:
I still need clarification. I found an orange wire (12gage?) with a plug that allows the conv't plug to plugg into, The orange wire then runs behind the fuse box to somewhere? But the orange plug still needs to plug into something, am I missing something here?
What does the breaker look like, is it on the firewall? I'm confused.
On my convertible w/power top, the power lead to the switch goes to the fuse block and another wire to the horn relay (this connector plugs into the relay and the single wire connector removed from the relay plugs back into the bottom of the connector).
The power lead wire directly from the power top switch has an end that is inserted into the top center slot on the fuse block under the dash (it only goes in one way). That slot's power is fed by the upper left fuse holder and it has a solid piece of steel rod in the shape of a fuse. The wire feeding that slot is the one that goes to the horn relay.
I do not have the separate relay as described above and on most Camaro's.
When I first got the car and tried to get power to the top switch, I had the same problem blowing fuses and I thought someone had inserted the piece of steel rod to over-ride the circuit. I did some research in my repair manual of the electrical system and found this to be the correct way to hook everything up.
Also, can you tell me more about your breaker switch?
AND now I know why my ebrake light doesnt' eluminate when ebrake is on. Is this something that is reproduced? Maybe Terry could help me out on getting me this wire?
Tom Quote: "I do not have the separate relay as described above and on most Camaro's" Tom, John isn't talking Camaro, he's talking 67. Our 69's have the relay behind the kick panel.
First of all thank you to everyone! To me it sounds like two different solutions? I am confused about the horn relay and which wires go where?
trmjr1, can you provide a picture? Fbody's picture looks like mine, but I do not get power to the conv't top switch like this? I don't know why, unless my horn relay is not correct? I can't tell from my wiring diagram either.
Send me a PM with your email address and I will get a picture to you. I hope to get out of here in the next few minutes - driving to Louisville for the GTO Nationals (if it doesn't rain again) so I may not get back with you until later this afternoon or tonight.
Tom: Are you saying that it should be a solid piece of steel instead of the upper left fuse? I keep tripping my 40A fuse in that position when operating the power top... There is a jumper harness between the horn relay feed and that prong in the fuse box? Pictures?
There is my stock/correct pic.(Ignore the red wires going to the acc prong, they are for other accessories) Don't forget about the relay behind the kick panel. Maybe my set-up is different because I have power windows, cruise, AC... ect. too? That is an aftermarket buss/breaker type fuse. DO NOT USE a piece of solid steel you may start a fire!
You are going to have to test that prong for power. If you do not have power to the fuse box on that prong then you may have burned the fusable link to the box. That prong provides the power to everything that works without the key on, for example, the horn sending unit.
Jim: I only have one lead(the power top switch) connected to that prong. I assume your other lead(s) from that prong goes to feed the other power acc´s, such as PW etc..., but the horn relay feed is not supposed to be connected to that prong?? It would be like bypassing the fuse, right?!
Hansi, The horn relay is not fused. From what I remember about your car it's very stock and original. Where does your horn relay get it's power? Mine comes out from the fuse box unfused. You are right, that other wire, coming from the power acc. prong goes to my power window relay behind the kick panel.
I looked up the shematic; it seems that the upper left FUSE is fed from the horn relay/key buzzer unit(located at the top op firewall on the left, behind the brake booster). This way it seems my conv pump is connected the right way. It still tripps the 40A fuse.... oh well, worn out pump it seems...
After all the confusion I think we can all agree that the power for the top on a 69 comes from the prong in the picture. Mine has a double lead because I have power windows. And it has been traced back to the starter power feed. If there is no power to this prong then either the wire from the starter is not hooked up or the fusible link in it is melted.
Guys: It appear to be an error it the fuse box layout in that schematic; the top left fuse feeds only the prong next to it(not shown in the diagram) and the orange/black lead (clock/lighter etc)is fed from the SECOND from top fuse! At least this is how the fuse box is labeled, and works on my(and apparently jim´s) car. I will compare this diagram to my hard copy when I go to my garage.
The relay is separate from the top circuit. You need to concentrate on getting power to the power accesory prong(the one in the pic). If you have no power you probably have a bad wire/fusible link.
The relay condition will not affect this feed, they just share the feed. Check on your horn relay feed; there should be a lead going further from it, into the top left fuse.
Only breaks when an unauthorized operator is on the switch. Just kidding, it has only blown a couple times when I was putting the top up and a repeatedly trying to adjust it when I was restoring it. Under normal conditions it has not blown.