I didn't say what was a quality starter. I only said a decent functional starter was indicated to solve these hot-start problems. I said that rewiring the car to limp a failed starter along was just a band-aid. Or at least that is what I meant. I think Merv hinted at that too. Someone here explained the starter cable getting excessively hot. That only happens with a binding rotor. It doesn't happen because the bendix can't operate. A binding motor draws high current. A bendix that won't engage will let the starter spin free without the motor turning. Bad contacts at the starter won't cause the cables to overheat, unless you have rewritten ohms law. The fire would be at the contacts, not the cable. I said fix the problem at the starter where the problem is, rather than to redesign the car.

All that goes out the window if you're building a high compression race car. Then the car is back-halved, and it's value is in the crapper anyway. Might as well have a Nova then.



Explain why. I was there in 1968. I owned a Firebird back then and friends had Chevy SS 396's. My mom owned a 67 Delmont 88 olds and it never failed to start. Others drove their mom's Rambler to school. None of us ever sat their waiting for our cars to cool so we could start them.

Here, it's being suggested to rewire an original car to solve a design problem that doesn't exist. It's rather like recommending pouring in 50 wt oil, saying GM didn't know how to fit rings.

Ford Mustang was first to market. That doesn't mean it was best, or there would be a Mustang project in my garage. I passed one by four years ago.. no rust, six banger for $1500. The buyer back halve it, destroying what was left. Not my cuppa. Reminds me of madman Muntz.