It's good hear the stories of how well they work, now the question is:
*What brand is the best bang for the buck.
*What tucks up under the car the best
*Weld in or bolt in?
If I use the weld in connectors from Hotchkis is it recomended to use solid body bushing?
The price looks to very from $99 Summit specials to $379 for the Hotchkis or $569 for the chassi max system.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Year/...rame+connectorsI'm leaning tword the Hotchkis because they seem to have a good rep and it looks like they would tuck up under the car the best.
Has anyone here used them?
I answered a few of my one questions from the pro-touring site.
The reason for solid bushings is to avoid cracking at the body where the sub bolts to.
The connectors are solidy mounted to the rear body then welded solid to the subframe. If the subframe where allowed to move and flex as it would with pliable bushings it would cause the body to crack at the floor around the nut cage. Bad news.
BMRTech
We do consider the Delrin to be a solid bushing. We have had very good results with the Delrin body mounts. They do everything an aluminum mount does and you never have to worry about corrosion. You can torque them to spec just like a solid bushing or a sleeved rubber bushing. Delrin is practically as hard as aluminum but self lubricating so they never creak like some solid bushings tend to do over time if you don't re-tighten them. I don't mean to sound like I am bashing aluminum bushings (I ran them for years in my 69 and 70 Camaros), it's just that the delrin bushings work so well I can't believe we were the first to think about building them!
BTW, I bought the Hotchkis SFC's... they are supposed to be the tightest fitting to the floor...
Pro-touring F-Body's subframe connectors also sit right up tight to the floor pan and require no body mods...can be welded or bolted in. They recommend solid body mounts.
While solid body mounts are not too bad rememebr to keep your radiator support busshings rubber to absorb any shock. I've seen some radiators vibrated to pieces, over time, when solid bushings were used on the radiator support.
I also came across Competition Engineerings non-wielding sfc's. any input on these? are they any good?
I have seen them, removed them, Hotchkis are nicer
Not very good at all.
According to the install instructions for the Hotchkis SFC for a Convertible the car is suppose to be setting on all 4 wheels and drive height. You then install the SFC while setting on all 4 wheels.
according to Hotchkis's website:
1 – Before performing the subframe connector installation, the vehicle must be completely assembled with all body and component parts installed (e.g. fenders, hood, quarterpanels, trunk, full interior, engine, glass, etc.). Basically, the subframe connectors should be one of the last components installed on your vehicle. Reason being is you want the vehicle settled with all of it’s own final weight. The car’s body is always in constant tension, with forces pushing or pulling within the chassis & body. You want to make sure these forces don’tchange after you install the subframe connectors.
Pics found here of the Hotchkis
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.ph...rame+connectorsWhat I see in the pics is if you need to change a break or fuel line you will be cutting the connectors out.
