"The offset shafts do help with number of shims needed but don't do anything about the negative camber. There are only three options for correcting the suspension geometry. Taller spindle, taller ball joint or lower the A-arm mounting points(Guldstrand mod)."

I'm a bit confused and Don't want to sound standoffish... Offset cross-shafts are designed to do just that. They Increase positive camber so that you can achieve a neutral (approximate) camber measurement (+/- 0) on a lowered suspension car. The Guldstrand mod was / is a permanent change to your subframe and needs to be spot on to achieve its goal, Personally I feel that it's not needed unless your auto-crossing on a budget. By using offset cross-shafts to increase positive camber it allows you to add less shims to a single side (offsetting shaft) to allow for a positive castor angle (+5). I've not worked with taller ball joints on stock arms as I've never been presented with a need for them. Most aftermarket uppers designed today come with upper and lower joints as they are engineered for the results most drivers are looking for.

A true sure fire method to achieving a solid (no rub) suspension set up is to get your alignment readings from where your at now with the rub. If your not lowered and everything seems original you might find that your problem is actually something easily detectable like a bent arm, (upper/lower) from years ago... This is a much easier (and cheeper) way than finding a needle in a haystack.