Comp Cam, near to stock specs (should not hinder performance)
Edelbrock kintake manifold (don't know the type)
Heads say 140 (or 740, but I think 140) on the center exaust dump (don't know if the heads are good or bad performance wise)
HEI distributor (last one bearing froze up at car show 80 miles away, thank you AAA), new 8mm (I think) wires, and plugs.
Car brought from Missouri to Colorado, plenty of oxygen to little oxygen.
Car idles great, all day long.
I was told the primary and secondary stock jets only were directly swapped (don't know why)
Electric choke plug to constant hot wire, instead of ignition on hot wire (don't know why, will change this as book says keyed 12 volt source) This shouldn't interfere I would think.
when under hood, simulating stomping the pedal like from a green light race, the car has a flat spot for a second then increases in rpm at a very respectable climb (maybe a touch slow, but I'm used to a FI LT1 that is super responsive)
So it's the immediate right off idle transition from the idle circuit to the primary, not a stumble like bad timing or rough idle, just a dead spot, poor responsiveness.
So as you come of idle circuit and transition to the primary circuit, I've wittled it down to a few factors. Lean or rich condition caused by primary metering rod open up to fast or to slow, simple spring swaps should answer that. Accel pump not giving a long enough shot, or to long a hot of gas. Then jets for fine tuning.
As soon as I swap the springs (2 minutes) I should get a great indication of lean or rich, and adjust with accel shot, and jets and rods. I think the springs will hopefully cause enough difference where I can determine lean or rich, then it's all tuning in. Like I said, not a carb guy, but with the homework I've done, I think this might get the ball rolling in the correct direction, what do you think?
Next step if the springs don't give a good indication, I will do jets and rods on the primary circuit to go 2 steps leaner, and 2 steps richer over stock settings and keep working in the best direction.
I should be able to start letting the clutch out and if I wanted stomp and spin the tires with all this combo. With 2.50 gear I used to have to feather the clutch and gas to get going. With the 3.23's it's much more driveable, but you aren't going to lay rubber unless you rev high and dump the clutch. Now I'm not one to tear up tires for fun, but if I want to leave a light with some speed I should be able to.
Man I'm long winded today, but wanted everyone to know it all, heck for all I know these heads could suck so bad that it's not all carb at all.
