I have a 1967 firebird with a 1968 pontiac 400.
I want to replace the heads and i am not sure where to start.

I have seen the Edelbrock Performer heads that go for about 1800-1900 that are aluminum.
Since my block is cast-iron will aluminum heads mess anything up? i.e. Temperature

no it will not mess anything up,just use a good head gasket. i prefer the ones that butler performance sells have never had an issue with them.

also,dont overheat the motor.alumunum heads are prone to warping and cracking.i would not recommend them unless you are building a drag car.

Aluminum heads are great for street cars too. Why? Because you have a much greater potential to be able to use pump gas. Aluminum heads allow you to run lower octane fuel than an iron head with the same compression. They run cooler, dissipate heat more efficiently. If you have it in your budget and are not stuck on originality then aluminum heads are the ticket. Hands down, the best thing going....

seconded! you gain roughly 30+ hp. by going to the aluminum heads over stock. you also drop 75#'s of weight. this equation offers you a quicker car and greater fun factor!

andy

I am going the aluminum head route with my 455 build-up. You also have to get the Edelbrock head bolts to go with these heads.

Awesome. Thanks a lot guys, i think im going to go with the Aluminum heads. Im stuck in afghanistan at the moment, but once i get back to the states from this deployment, im going to fix that firebird up.

i personally profit when people beef their cars up,they eventually end up in my junk yard after they get wrecked.

Nice Bird!!!

Thanks.

Terry does have a good point. Make sure the cooling sys is up to snuff and you'll be fine. If ya do blow something in the cooling sys, shut it down and correct the problem. Warped heads are only worth there weight in scrap.

Hey thanks a lot for your suggestion. Ill be sure to improve my cooling system. Anything you recommend?

Well... that's a can-o-worms you just opened.

There are many mods and opinions on how to stay cool. First things first. Just make sure your cooling sys holds pressure (14-17 PSI), hoses in good condition, clamps tight, no leaks etc etc.

all that leads you back to is the cost worth it?i wish i had that kind of money to toss away into unnecessary modifications.i have to bust my butt just to try to maintain my bird and all my bills.i think i may be in the wrong business

Steve, nice bird!

If you're gonna replace your heads, get in touch with a reputable machinist for advice. With Aluminum heads, you'll be able to increase your compression ratio(increasing HP) and still run pump gas(several other details to consider). With the right info, your machinist can reccommend the best configuration to get the most bang for your hard earned, kicking a$$ in Afghanistan, buck.

The Edelbrock heads have far superior flow than any of the cast heads. -Also better than the best iron castings (ram air IV).

-The weight factor is also a good point, and with the better flow, you'll be able to use a slightly bigger cam (gain as much as 70TQ+/70HP+) -or just use your old cam, and gain loads of torque, and about 30-40 HP.

If you slap on a pair of headers, expect as much as around 100HP+ extra.


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0101_501hp_455_pontiac/index.html

Then (as 69firebirdman points out) you might destroy your rearend/transmission.

So be sure you have the right parts..
But I would warmly recommend those heads. (Performer RPM)

If you are very conservative and worry that you could break something or crash because you have completely overloaded your first gen with horsepower when you add something like aluminum heads then consider this; Your first gen was built to handle 300 plus horsepower. Aluminum heads can be used to 'get you back' up to this number with the terrible fuel that is available today. So, you aren't being 'irresponsible' when you add these heads. You could look at it that you are putting things back the way they were supposed to be horsepower wise. Not recklessly endanagering your precious car and sending it to the scrapper in a basket.

There are many good benefits using A-heads.
Engine runs cooler.
Saves wieght.
More power.
Can use 87-9 octane with 10.5 c.r. depending on camshaft.

Will have to use hedders or RAIV/455 H.O.-S.D. manifolds.
Then theres recalibrating the carb and distributor.

Edelbrock's have a 5/8's thick deck surface.
They wont warp very easy.
1.800 installed valve hieght good for .575 lift(i would stay under .550)
Should use at least a RAIV cam.

No matter who's you buy, be sure you dissasemble and check'm before intalling.
Sometimes there's some crud left in them, or a valve seat's may not be fully finished, etc.

...and there are alternatives to E'brock...and you don't have to use RAIV type exhaust manifolds...and you can order to your specified chamber size...at same price as E'brock.

Ponchoshop, great point re inspection. Also, check your chamber CC before installation.

ORIGINAL IS ALWAYS BETTER.THAT IS MY OPINION AND I'M STICKING TO IT

One point to consider, if you don't already have good heads to start with (like my 455 build-up) is that you can buy E-heads ready to bolt on for about what it would cost to have a good set of cast iron heads set up (including some port work).

Nice bird and welcome. Jim has a great point about the E-heads. Believe me, your A-OK with that option and I would be right there with you if I had the $$$ to spend on the heads.
Thanks for kickin @ss in AFG and enjoy the bird when you get back.
Welcome!!!

Won of dee more interesting aspects of the debate is in won breath, scream the price tag on the car is too high if someone axes a few kays four a car. Den in the next breath, claim 2 kay on a set of heads is the way to go.

Life is fasinating!

The Aluminum KRE heads feature heart shaped chambers and relocated spark plugs for improved swirl, good quench, and overall better combustion. These features together improve combustion at all loads and speeds making them not only an improvement on torque across the entire rpm band, but driveability and fuel economy as well. They are also compatible with D-port exhausts and also flow about as much as a good set of ported iron heads out of teh box.

Interesting Festus. You keep vaguely illuding to someone saying a car's price is too high. Don't be shy, come right out and show us what you mean. Maybe a quote of said person complaining about car prices. Then, maybe, you could put down your grinding axe. Of course, you might really enjoy these vague attacks on ghost stories. Thanks.

For BIG INJUN heads that flow, check out www.rolandracing.com and see his newly designed A-heads. These were not designed to pussyfoot around, but to enable big power. The only thing they really have in common with this particular thread is they are aluminum.

Hmm. That's what I sound like when I've had too much beer or Scotch.

Been waiting on them myself.
Use bbc vlvs and springs, and no $$$$ shaft rockers for high lift cams.
Have to use a ford tunnel port intake, or wait for intake to head adapter plts.
Can you say 700hp under 7000 rpms

Take it outside boys. Doesn't belong here. Back to topic...

Quit being so tight

The CV-1s look nice, but I wonder what the runner volume is. Might be too big for a street engine.

i wish everybody that is looking to race and go faster would buy camos.there are plenty of them out there.why not ruin a chitmaro?

Dont heve the #'s in my head, but he is planning to release a complete street package, a race package, and a bare casting.

Why use old out of date junk.?

I think we should all be glad that aftermarket stuff is around for Pontiacs.

It is not important if it's for going fast(er) or just being able to run lower octane, or weather it's a 'pure' pontiac anymore.

Neither how much it's worth.

It's worth nothing if it won't run.

Also there is absolute no point in investing in 'pure' pontiac heads, with new valves, springs, and all, -when dollar for dollar it's earned when comparing the superiority of aluminum heads, compared to cast iron.

Keep in mind that you are getting 'free' horsepower. -The fuelpump pumps the same amount of fuel, -but the power it makes is not the same.

Do what i did.
Find a beat up non #'s matching plain car to ruin so you wont do it to your #'s matching car.
Need some fast FB's out there to shame the other guys

Can always save your original heads, etc.
For instance, i pulled the original drive train out of my 67FB, put in a 70 RAIII engine, a different 4 spd, and a 12 bolt rear.
Original parts are stored away.

I second that!
-Use them as ballast in the rear, if driving in the snow ;-)

Drove mine one winter.
Was in the ditch weekly
Never again!

If i catch ANY of you guys drive'n your FB in the winter(snow/salt), i'll personnally come and horse wipe you!

I second that!

Give the KRE's a good look. Flow numbers are great. Plenty of metal if you want to do some porting...you can order to your specs...and drivable on the street. But, most importantly, get a good machinist involved in your decision making.

Extra horsepower takes extra fuel - no "free" lunch!