My CC looks a bit ragged and I was wondering what suggestions you mighty Firebird gurus have on the subject. My burlwood is pretty ratty on the door and faded badly elsewhere. It's complete, but fugly nonetheless.

There are kits to restore the burl wood through the vendors. As to there quality I'll have to let others chime in. I do know the old vinyl should be removed before applying the new.

I've seen the kit for 4-speed consoles and I would imagine you could cut it to fit an automatic.

Any suggestions on removing the old burl? I plan to completely disassemble the unit today to see exactly how far I can go. It looks like the surface the decal is stuck to is metal.

Not sure though.

I used a kit from NPD on one of my cars that I sold. I went right over the old burlwood and it worked good. You have to sand the surface and make sure it's smooth. The only complaint I had was it looked a little too new. It's the best thing out there.... Nash did his too. Maybe he will post some pics and insight.

The burlwood applique kits currently available have the correct image, but the appearance is nothing like original. If you are replacing all the woodgrain surfaces with the same applique it won't be so bad.

The new applique is a low gloss satin finish; the original is significantly higher gloss. A very thorough cleaning of any remaining original pieces to remove waxes and oils may help with matching.

The pattern of indentations to accent the grain are also much less prominent in the new applique.

And it's slightly difficult to get it to look perfect. The corners have to be curled under and matched up just right. When I did mine I tried a few kinds of adhesive. What I found that worked the best was laminant adhesive. The kind you use on counter tops. The stuff without the fumes is what works. It's the white, milky kind. Water based. The thinner based product will melt the applique.

this is why I live with my old faded burlwood...some Armorall on it seems to help..

Old, faded burlwood is not a bad thing. It's like a patina. Some are really badly flaking though. It's not so good laying your arm on a flaky console.

I've considered restoring one of my spare console tops with genuine elm burl. I think it would look much better than second rate vinyl.

faded , like the owner...I`ve got some "patina" too....lol
and Armorall doesnt help me...

That's my primary issue at this point. The door is rough enough to chaff elbows and is flaking badly. I just got it all apart this morning so I'm now deciding what I want to do with it. My car will never be anything close to a pristine original machine so I'm thinking of alternate idea besides the burl. IMHO, fake wood trim is kind of tacky anyhow.

Been tossing around the idea of either anodizing the metal portion, or chroming it.

That would be the way to go. The absolute best. Another way to go would be the simulated burlwood stamper that antiquers use. A good antiquer can put the burlwood design on anything and you would think it's real.

I have refinished one that was beyond use with SEM Landau Black paint and it looks as if it could have been factory; coupled with a center dash or dash panel similarly treated it would give a minimalist, clean look with the chrome accents.

I think that's the route I'm leaning towards at this point.

I did mine with the self adhesive backed burl I purchased from Ebay and was very happy with the results. I too just left the old on and used silicone polish remover to get all the old armour all etc residue off. Stuck like Sh!t to a blanket. I like the less glossy look and will be doing the dash piece this winter to match, altho one has to look pretty closely to tell there is a diff.

I like Vicky's idea of real burl veneer. I have worked with veneers before building stereo speakers in my younger days...very satisfying ...may just try it on a console!

my biggest problem with the burlwood applique kits is that it doesnt include an applique for the center dash bezel of radio face plate. additionally i dont believe anyone sells a repos.

I couldn't deal with two different color burlwoods. Aside from the sheen the appliques are much darker than the originals too. Once again I located some original componets and threw them in, they match, and they look great.

i could use another console door though, mine has a slight ding in it

Mine has the same (Don't most of them?) but I plan to just use a touch of spot putty to fill the 'dent'.

What would you all recommend to remove the old burl with?

Edit; Just BIN'd a burl repacement for auto console off eBay. I'll let everyone know if it's pure caca or if it's a decent alternative to burl-itis

Orbital sander.

Thanks Jim. I had a feeling it was either that or a blow torch

You can see a picture of the NPD kit in my signature. Its a good kit, but as Jim said its really tough to get the seams right. Just use a non-acidic adhesive and you will be ok. I used a spray adhesive from Hobby Lobby.
Ignore the seems in the front of the picture. Since the idiot that owned the car before me decided to hack up the console [which I had to fix] I had to move the console applique back and then do some patchwork in the front. You wont have to worry about these seams.
Here are a few pictures:

That sure looks better than what I'm working with at this point. What would be a good material to use to reline the console storage box? It looks like there is some type of odd 'flocking' material in mine now and it bleeds color like a stuck pig.

Actually the guy on Ebay I got my console applique from said he does have the centre radio kit. Unfortunately I cannot recall who he is but will check for you.

I have a flocking kit to redo mine and hope to do it this winter. I know some others here have done it....not sure what you mean by bleeds color tho. The flocking kit I have has an adhesive and black material...

I believe it was "firstclassparts", he has a console kit on there now ending in 5 minutes, I have asked him again about the radio panel kit, and will let you know when he replies.

Thanks Dave. By color bleed I mean that when I was washing and then drying the console, a paper towel used inside the storage area turned a nasty purple. Prolly cuz it was so old

I reflocked mine with a kit for flocking decoy ducks. It came out very nice. I just thinned the adhesive per instructions and sprayed through my paint gun, then applied the flocking material. I shook off the excess the next day and it was done.

So now everytime you open the console door, it quacks?

Sorry, I couldn't resist

No but a flock of ducks come in to roost on his window crossbar..

Thats the same kit I have John, will be trying it soon.

Here's his response as promised;

We do sell the dash kit. Cost is 39.95 plus shipping. We would need your zip code to quote you.

First Class Parts
P.O. Box 261
Palmyra, Pa 17078
Replies sent M-F 8am-4:30pm EST.

fcp@dejazzd.com

For all you flocking smarties, here's a link to the flocking site:

http://www.donjer.com/suedetex/product.htm

That's flocking awesome!

Thanks Dave. I'll keep that address handy for when I'm ready to conquer the dash.

I received the burl replacement yesterday and I must say, it looks pretty good. It has the similar texture the old one had plus the color and tone of the burl is very close to the ashtray and dash panel burl. Being they're seen at different angles when in the car, I think I've got a passable solution to my Burd's case of burl-itis. I will snap some pictures of the finished product after I get it installed.

Quick question..Is there a quick and easy wasy to remove the auto shifter trim panel from around the shifter without disassembling the entire shifter? I looked at it for a while and the answer bedaffles me. (my eyes aren't the best either)

Lift off the black button on the shifter (tight, spring clip fit). Use an allen wrench to loosen the set screw, remove the T handle. Plate will lift free.

reminds me of the flock of sea gulls

You mean when your dashing, your always flocking.

I was afraid you were going to say that. I've replaced the original because the snap clips were broken. I'm wondering if removing the replacement will snap the clips also.

Dilemma time

The repro plastic seems to be a little less brittle. I've pulled the button on my '68 shifter a half a dozen times now. And besides, they are cheap.

That's encouraging.

And it was pretty cheap. I just remember having the old one shoot halfway across the car every time I manually shifted the TH400. It got to be a contest to see how far I could get it to fly.

Holy smokes Batman!

I spent a good half-hour with the orbital sander(or until my carpal tunnels were screaming) trying get that the factory burl off my console. I barely nicked it and I was using 150 grit!

Grr. Next step, 80 grit?

Use the 150 to take out the scratches from the 80 grit. Then 320 to finish it off.