I never have liked a gold interior so I am planning to swap it to black and have a couple questions.
Painting the plastic/metal dash pieces, anything special to do to get the paint to stick and look good on these?
Anything overly difficult about stripping the dash trim/accessories off before I paint it?
Can anyone recommend a brand/part number for interior paint?
The carpet is bad anyway, along with the headliner, trim, seat belts, door panels, and seat backs. Figure if I have to change it I might as well like what I change it to.
The plastic and metal parts should cover with paint just fine after a good cleaning and de-greaser, and possibly a light sanding with wet/dry. Prime and paint. The vinyl parts I would not recommend painting, but you didn't mention that, so I will assume you are replacing with your new color.
I am still needing one set of rear gold seatbelts and buckles, along with other misc. gold trim. So if you are interested in parting with some of your old items, please let me know.
Craig
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
if you go black buy new for some peices. sell the rest. i could use some ivy gold parts for mine. I have a set of black original deluxe. would like ivy gold deluxe.
I have always purchased my interior paints from Classic Industries. Therefore, I believe it was them that highly recommended "Plastic Prep" (I think its called) to remove grease and then a brown flexible primer ("Plastic Primer" maybe?) for interior plastic parts. I have always followed that advice and never had a paint adhesion problem.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Well a quick review of the latest CI catalog shows that the names are different now. They call them OEM EZ Prep and OEM Adhesion Promoter.
But then I see they a completely new line of interior paints that are supposed to “bond” with soft interior materials and supposedly down need any prep work.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
SEM brand is about the best for plastic interior parts. The parts need to be cleaned/degreased, dried and then you need to use an adhesion promoter and then very fine light coats of the SEM top coat to achieve the desired results.
So far after 2 years, I've only found one small area where it has chipped or scratched... but at least the color on mine was almost the same underneath, so it's not obvious.
SEM usually can be found at most automotive Paint supply stores or on line and they have the widest variety available.
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