I found my OEM water pump at O'Riellys and for 24.99 (4.00 of that was a core) it does what it says, and does it well. I think the aftermarkets look better, but OEM functions fine In my opinion
The thing to consider with the stock pumps is the impeller. There are two types, cast and stamped. The better of the two is the cast. The best thing for overheating issues is to get the clearance between the impeller and divider plate as close as possible.
I've done just about everything to get my convertible to run cooler. All but the side masticated fillers and divider clearance. For me that's one project on the books when it gets warmer.
Hello, are those aftermarket water pumps like the flowkooler worth the bucks or does the stocker work just as well?
my stock worked great until it wore oput...I replaced it with a Flowkooler by recomendations from a friend who said he did it and had great results... I dont see any big improvement ,but on the other hand it runs just fine with it too....so...for whatever thats worth...
before mine wore out I DID do the trick shown by Wallacracing...it helped a little bit.
The thing to consider with the stock pumps is the impeller. There are two types, cast and stamped. The better of the two is the cast. The best thing for overheating issues is to get the clearance between the impeller and divider plate as close as possible.
I've done just about everything to get my convertible to run cooler. All but the side masticated fillers and divider clearance. For me that's one project on the books when it gets warmer.
installing one masticated filler ( I had one missing) did somewhere 3 and 5 F for me...
I use the flokooler on the left. It seems to help somewhat but, not a "cure all". The casting is thicker than the stock pump. You'll have to do a little grinding to fit the alternator bracket and clear the Power steering belt.
Here's what it looks like with the divider plate installed...
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
Thanks for all the input. I pulled my fan and shroud off to do a little cosmetic stuff on the front of the motor and found it took two hands to turn the pump. I don't know what happened to it the car ran great last summer and for winter starts. Maybe it's just time for a new one as the pump is probably 20yrs old.
I ordered a reconditioned pump today as they seem to be the only ones that have a cast iron impeller. It seems the new pumps all have the stamped metal impeller that everybody says to stay away from. Is that what you guys have found as well? The Wallace racing trick seems to have helped alot of people so I'll have to give that a try. I can't remember what mine looks like inside but does that trick apply to the 8 bolt pump as well?
Ames sells new 8 bolt water pumps with cast impellers. When I bought mine a year ago, they checked there entire stock and every one had the cast impeller.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
