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Are my fenders for my '69 Firebird too bad to repair.
I would like to keep as much of the original metal as possible.
If patches are used what are the chances of any problems occuring in the future and what type of problems?
Also, would butt welds be the way to go if patches are used?
Thanks for the help.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Unless you can find NOS fenders I would repair the ones you have. A friend of mine went with repop fenders because his looked like yours and had problems fitting the new ones. Another body man told him he could have saved the original fenders and avoided all ao the fitting issues. I know my fenders were at least as bad as yours and my body guy used patch panels and I am happy with the results. He did all the body work so I can't say if but welding is the best way to go. Find a good body guy you can trust and go with his recomendations. Good luck!
] ![[Linked Image from i601.photobucket.com]](http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt95/920-680-1902/firebird/Photo_2006_1_29_22_27_15_edited_edi.jpg) Hank K. Green Bay Wis.
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Let your body guy decide how he can make them perfect, but I'd recommend replacement of the rear sections starting just above the "scoops". This looks like more than a patch panel will cover. The old front damage can be readily repaired.
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Unless you can find NOS fenders I would repair the ones you have. A friend of mine went with repop fenders because his looked like yours and had problems fitting the new ones. Another body man told him he could have saved the original fenders and avoided all ao the fitting issues. I know my fenders were at least as bad as yours and my body guy used patch panels and I am happy with the results. He did all the body work so I can't say if but welding is the best way to go. Find a good body guy you can trust and go with his recomendations. Good luck! I have heard several people talk about having problems with repo's not fitting correctely. If the fenders are off then it seems the hood and nose would be thrown off also. Thanks.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Those are not bad from what I/we can see. I'd keep'm.
-Jeff
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Let your body guy decide how he can make them perfect, but I'd recommend replacement of the rear sections starting just above the "scoops". This looks like more than a patch panel will cover. The old front damage can be readily repaired. Hi Vikki. The top scoop on the driver's side looks ok. Would you still go above the top scoop with a patch? I have seen a company on ebay, Motor City Hi-Performance, selling the scoop patch panels. I plan on calling to get details of the patch. What companies offer the scoop patches? I don't recall anyone selling these. Would butt welding be the best way to repair this area? Should be easy to repair both sides of the fender or will the fender braces be a problem? Thanks for the help.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Those are not bad from what I/we can see. I'd keep'm. I think I will keep the originals and have them patched. Hopefully I wont have any trouble after they are patched. Thanks Jeff.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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That patch style is made for lap welding with the flange at the top. Always the best way to go if you can, in my opinion.
-Jeff
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a friend here first patched his 69 fenders with a leaded fill....then he and his painter decided to buy new repops, then they didnt fit right , so he ended up using the originals afterall
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That patch style is made for lap welding with the flange at the top. Always the best way to go if you can, in my opinion. Jeff, why not butt weld them? Thanks
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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a friend here first patched his 69 fenders with a leaded fill....then he and his painter decided to buy new repops, then they didnt fit right , so he ended up using the originals afterall Sounds like I should repair my originals. Thanks.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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I tried to use the repo fenders on my 69 and could not get them to fit. I repaired the originals and reused them. Mine looked like yours. I wasted a lot of time trying to get the repo's to fit but I never was happy with the result.
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Jeff, why not butt weld them? Not as strong in my opinion.
-Jeff
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It seems fenders are "mated" to a car -- if you have the originals I'd have them fixed. If, like me, you don't have any fenders to begin with, I don't think it makes much difference whether you go with originals or repops. Both will require work to make them fit properly.
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I tried to use the repo fenders on my 69 and could not get them to fit. I repaired the originals and reused them. Mine looked like yours. I wasted a lot of time trying to get the repo's to fit but I never was happy with the result. David did you use butt welds or flange on your fenders? How long ago did you do the repair? Thanks for your help.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Thanks Jeff and JC.
Did anyone have trouble with the support behind the fender?
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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Keep as much original steel as you can, most of the repop parts are tinny and dent easily especially on outer panels that show. I took a look at those scoop panel patches and was not pleased with the crispness of the lines. Your fenders look like they just need a dogleg shaped patch along the back edge and along the bottom. My fenders are that bad or worse and I am fixing mine. The braces in the back of mine were rough, I cut them out carefully, repaired the rusted parts with new steel and put them back in before repairing the outer panel rust spots. Butt welds in my opinion are the way to go, proper heat and wire speed on the mig will get good penetration/strength. The butt weld requires almost no filler after the joint is ground down. Flange welds create a moisture and debris trap causing rust issues down the road. My 2c
Grant
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Keep as much original steel as you can, most of the repop parts are tinny and dent easily especially on outer panels that show. I took a look at those scoop panel patches and was not pleased with the crispness of the lines. Your fenders look like they just need a dogleg shaped patch along the back edge and along the bottom. My fenders are that bad or worse and I am fixing mine. The braces in the back of mine were rough, I cut them out carefully, repaired the rusted parts with new steel and put them back in before repairing the outer panel rust spots. Butt welds in my opinion are the way to go, proper heat and wire speed on the mig will get good penetration/strength. The butt weld requires almost no filler after the joint is ground down. Flange welds create a moisture and debris trap causing rust issues down the road. My 2c
Grant
Is the a difference seen between the patch scoops and the full fender scoops? It would be expensive but what do you think about cutting the scoops out of a full fender (if they have sharper lines) to replace the rusted scoops? I have never seen a repo full fender or a fender patch so I don't know. Thanks.
Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe
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I have fixed a few using some damaged Scumaro fenders. Just stay away from the vents and they work fine. Even the rear braces will work.
Barry
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The repops always require body work, although the metal is getting better than it used to be it is still much softer than NOS or original, it does not have near the temper the, even after being weld on
Lap joints are easier than but joints.
the problems are: with a but joint they must be welded solid and ground as flat as possible or they may show even through the filler when heated in the sun, a lap joint van be spot welded, it will show if it is direct sunlight and also has the potential to hold water
If you have some one to repair them and you trust them to do it, fix them
Mark
Last edited by m raef; 10/01/09 02:27 AM.
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who did you have blast them, or did you do it?
Depending on the media and pressure used that my couse more work than the rust.
not so much on the fenders but the large flat areas (hood,trunk,top,doors)
Last edited by m raef; 10/01/09 02:46 AM.
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I'll trade you my Dynacorn fenders for your beat up ones! Mine were way worse than yours, not necessarily from rust but from beatings from prior owners. They looked OK when I removed them but turns out the had over 3/4 - 1" of filler over most of the fender. The new ones look good but I still haven't gotten them to fit, especially where the headlight assembly butts to them. They are also wider across the top forcing me to move the doors as far out as far as they will go.
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