Hey guys! Finally, home from Iraq.

I wrote a few months ago about a car I bought, convertible 69 Firebird with a really weird engine build. I had not seen it until now, what a beautiful sight it is...

Of course, shortly after the initial shock/awe introduction, I started to dig into the car. First thing: starter pinion gear retaining clip decided to break before I even got to start it up, so it took me nearly a week to get a replacement pinnion gear and clip (was a summit racing high-torque starter) in the mail. Now she starts well, but is a bit fussy, hopefully some tuning in will help with that.

As some of you suggested, I acquired the proper spark plugs, new wires, and I just flushed the coolant. My wife said that the car was overheating, and (long story short) I discovered a miss-calibrated fan thermostat, now she is running at 190-ish degrees. From what I understand, that is a good operating temperature for a 455 that (likely) has high compression.

I know the knowledge base out here is awesome; you guys have given me some good pointers and tips (separated the 5 and 7 wire), which allowed me to get the T/A running quickly and well right away. So, if you have the time, I would like to read your recommendations on car project priorities with the issues I have listed below.
Problems:

#1 brakes. I have a frayed brake line going to the driver’s front caliper. Looks like it got scuffed by the tire a few times. Before I do any driving over 40mph I am going to get this squared away and inspect/replace all other brake components.

Engine does not make sense: ’71 or later 455, with 428 H.O. heads on it. She has a rough idle, but sounds right. No signs of detonation on the old plugs. I am going to get the compression tested on Tuesday. Has a nice Speed Demon carburetor on it. Going to get that tuned in real nice on Tuesday as well.

Hood Tach does not work (wires poorly routed… gets caught in the hood hinge springs)

While driving at slow speeds, the car jerks a bit… but it smoothes out above 25-30mph… what could cause that?

Driver’s side header gasket has a leak

Dash gauges have been bypassed with aftermarket gauge cluster… would like to use originals and discard the cluster.

The wire harness coming from the alternator had a melted plastic sleeve… guessing I should find something to elevate the wires off the intake manifold?

Window motors are weak. They also do not seal really well on the convertible top. Any tricks to aligning the windows and the top?

Coolant reservoir is missing… do I need one?

Body paint is “OK” I would rate it at 6-ish out of 10. She has a dozen or so chips, but no rust. I would like to get the chips filled/repainted if needed.

Suspension needs an overhaul I think… shocks are due, leans about half an inch down on the driver’s side, but all grease points seem to be solid and have been well greased

Doors need alignment, driver’s door is a bit fussy.

Electrical nightmare… too much aftermarket work on this car by (I would assume) multiple previous owners… I have random wires, vacuum tubes all over… I need to dig into this problem… suggestions? I am thinking a full wire harness replacement with “properly” implemented aftermarket necessities like the electric fan.

I know that is a bit long winded… if you took the time to read it all, thank you!!! And I look forward to any advice.

First off, wecome home and thanks for your service.
Think safety first. Make sure it stops well and the suspension and tires are up to the task. If it moves you've got to make sure it'll stop too. You say it moves kind of choppy at slow speeds. I'd guess a man trans right? Sounds like you have a lopey cam. It'll have those manners at slow speeds with alot of overlap. Not much you can do about that unless you want to swap cams with something ground on a 114 or so CL and less overlap. Tip of the iceberg my friend. Should be fun.

I don't know what kind of ignition system you have, but distributor advance springs that are too light can cause that issue. So can a torque converter low on fluid.




There was a steel u bracket from the factory; you can use heat proof wire loom, or re-route the wires so that they run along the inner fender then across to the engine.



No other way besides RTFM on this one. My site has the manuals if you don't have them, check the Fisher Body manual.


Not unless your car has had the radiator cap changed to a reservoir system cap. Original was a sealed system with no reservoir.


Just a personal preference, but I always assume brakes, ball joints, tie rods, idler and pitman are bad unless proven new or nearly so.


I used and recommend harnesses by M&H Electrical, http://wiringharness.com. They will build to your accessory needs. They also fit 100% like original. An electric fan is never a necessity.

Enjoy!

Thanks! yes, my car is a stick(TREMEC TK-500). That sounds right about the cam. I have a few other clues that hint towards a cam with overlap. I will probably change out the cam when I have the heads replaced.

I am all about the safety too. The brakes are first (Tuesday) and I will not be driving it at all until then.

That is good to know, I will have to see what I can find fix the issue. I will have to look into some pictures and figure out routing and such.



What is RTFM?



That geat! Thanks for the site, I will check them out!

RTFM = Read the 'factory' manual.

Glass adjustment is time consuming but worthwhile.

Thanks again Vikki! oddly, I have time, it is money that is running short :P I will have to check it out... I THINK I bought the Fisher manual... I will have to dig through my literature.

What is your site if I do not?

nevermind, I just looked at your signature lol.

Thanks!

Love the Yellowbird btw, my mom loves yellow, I will have to show a picture of your car to her when I go to visit. She has owned about half a dozen yellow cars, and I would love to get her into the Firebird world, your car may just be the ticket :P