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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37 |
Yes, I searched and read all the threads I could find. Is there any info on the correct locations of all the clips? Are there specific locations for them? My molding is the original that came off the car, but trying to get it reattached properly is not good. I cannot get the center retaining screw hole in the molding to line up with the original hole in the pinchweld. I spaced all the clips evenly across the length of the molding, is this correct or is there some "trick" to making it work? It lines up just 1 screw hole's width away and I cannot get it to line up without damaging the molding (no I don't want to try to drill a new hole, it fit originally). Here it can be seen that the molding lifts a little in the center and you just see the screw hole: I need to get that last screw in to keep the molding down tight and flush with the body panel. The rest fits good: Also, anyone know of a better quality top boot than what Classic Ind. sells? This is after one summer:
Last edited by indyblue; 04/10/11 03:13 AM.
'67 326 H.O. Convertible, WK block, Carter AFB, Montreaux Blue/Parchment interior, 3-speed manual floor shift, XG diff. 3.36:1, dual factory traction bars  '05 GTO M6 Impulse Blue/Black '84 FJ1100
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,027
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I just spaced them evenly, however it lifted with the boot clips so I removed it and added butyl tape, clipped back into position and lightly clamped tight. nice n stiff n tight now.
My boot did that too, its like they could have allowed another 1/4 to 1/2" of material. Looks like hell pulling up when snapped on, so I am going to take it down to an upholsterer to use as a template and make one the correct size, and with better backing. Should not cost too much..and it is the only major trim bugaboo I have
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37 |
TY. I did not put the sealer putty on yet so I could dry fit it to be sure it would go on. I am still not sure why I can't get the molding to line up with the last screw hole. I need to make that work before I attempt to putty it.
'67 326 H.O. Convertible, WK block, Carter AFB, Montreaux Blue/Parchment interior, 3-speed manual floor shift, XG diff. 3.36:1, dual factory traction bars  '05 GTO M6 Impulse Blue/Black '84 FJ1100
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,480
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,480 |
I had a few extra clips that I used not sure it was really needed. I also used a little butyl on mine to keep the water out better.
I took all my strength to push it on all the way and I just used small philips head self tappers to screw down the trim. Its on good and tight.
I think the same place must make the boots. Mine was way to tight. I got mine from AMES. I read all the complaints before hand and still got it anyway. I was able to get it on on a 90+ deg day. Then I left it on for 3 monthes. I got repramanded by my appolstery guy that I should never leave the top down like that. It should go back up each night to keep the rinkles out.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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I agree but the problem with those boots is once you do get it on you don't want to take it off and go thru it all over again....
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 37 |
I put my top down when the warm weather breaks and put it back up before it gets below 60 out at the end of the season.
As long as it is warm out when it goes back up the wrinkles seem to go away after the first few weeks of winter storage.
I think that leaving it down for the summer months actually helps it last longer since it isn't always being folded. I also make sure the rear plastic window is clean an free of dust so it won't scratch while it's folded and I place a microfiber towel where the window folds onto itself. After 7 seasons it is still crystal clear as you can see in the photos.
'67 326 H.O. Convertible, WK block, Carter AFB, Montreaux Blue/Parchment interior, 3-speed manual floor shift, XG diff. 3.36:1, dual factory traction bars  '05 GTO M6 Impulse Blue/Black '84 FJ1100
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