I have a 68 400 4spd coupe. Plenty of power. But I want to dig into the stock suspension. It has stock power steering, and brakes. I'm thinking about going with a total vehicle systems from Hotchkis. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm could really use advice.

I always advise anyone interested in upgrading their FGF suspension to check out this website:

Pozzi Racing


This guy has been autocrossing a 1st Gen Camaro for years and he has done a lot of experimenting. Good info there.

Pozzi(and his wife) races a second gen I think. But he and his site are great reference when it comes to good info on what works and what's a waste of time. I think you're going to hear, if you've got that much money to blow on it then go for it. Great equipment doesn't make you a better driver though. Only pratice does that.

I personly think the TVS is the best bang for the buck without knowing what your budget or plans for the car will be.

I used polygraphit bushings but wished I would have used Delrin bushing instead. I also went with KYB shocks and now wished I would have bought bilstien shocks. They have bilstien shocks matched for just for the TVS system. I have never heard a complaint from anyone using bilstiens. I'm saving for them now.

If your brave enough to do the goldstrand modification that is a positive improvement. I did this to my car but never drove it hard before hand to realy give a testimonial. If you do some searches on it you will see it the best suspension mod you can do, or you can buy a taller ball joint or the AFX spindle.

I also went with a Lee power steering box and AGR pump. I sent in my factory box to LEE and they put in a 12:1 ratio gear. My only complaint is they did not change the torsion bar so I can steer it with my pinky. I wanted it tight and with more feedback. I'm sending it back in to have this changed.

Besides the Pozzi site you may want to check out http://scandc.com/

I always loved thier SPC adjustible control arms. No shims needed at the alignment shop very easy to dial in your caster. Getting even more exotic is their AFX spindles.



So I hope this helps and you can learn from my mistakes.

Like mentioned above stay away from poly bushings in anything that rotates. There fine on sway bars and shocks but not on control arms and the back of the leafs. Also stay away from the KYB (kill your but) shocks. I made all of these same mistakes on my second gen before switching out to again like mentioned above Bilstein shocks and del-a-lum bushings. It was a night and day difference. David and Mary Pozzi are a wealth of knoweldge http://www.pozziracing.com/. Pick their brains if you get a chance. The TVS system is a pretty good route because everything is matched. SC&C is a good company. Give them a call and ask for Mark, be prepared to talk for a long time he loves to talk suspensions. I know it's mainly second gen parts but Dave at http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/ is also very helpful. I have a handful of his parts on my car.

I have a set of PST poly/graphite impregnated installed on mine. I don't race it or anything like that but the car steers and handles very solid. The graphite impregnated ones are a must else they squeak (mine do not). They also came with something called "Whale snot" that I used when installed.

Thank you all so much for the tips!

I've been following the above links, and they are proving helpful.
(So many interesting articles) But my bird is my daily driver. I do drive it hard when I'm commuting after a grave yard shift, and in the mountains. But I do not plan on serious auto-cross or open track. My budget is low (student) I just want to improve the car (thats what hot rodding is all about right?).

This is why I am leaning toward the TVS from Hotchkis. Does this evoke any more thoughts?

I installed stock springs cutting 1 coil in the fronts and installed the Hotchkis frame connectors. I also did the Iroc steering box swap and the car handles great.

how easy was the box swap?and that was power steering correct?

Steering box swap is probably a couple hours if you really dig into it. Mine took about 5 hours -

Have a beer while draining the system, unbolt the pitman arm, celebrate with a beer (mine dropped out pretty easily), drop the old box, have a beer, bolt the new box in, have a beer, help my wife unload the truck, another beer, hook up the new rag joint and hoses, have a beer ... you get the point

Had the rear end out to powder coat, so I wasn't worried about the blood alcohol content. Couldn't test drive that day anyhow.

lol

Did my best tune-ups after drinking a six pack. Eventually the car sounds better then you pass out. lol

The box swap was fairly simple. The road feel is much better than the stock box, but I wish it were more of a variable assist. It's still a bit easy to steer. You will need a new rag joint & some adapters for the hose fittings to convert to metric.

If I had it to do all over again I would let Lee rebuild the stock box to the way I want it to feel. Lee's rebuild just costs more than the Iroc swap.