Sports fans, It appears I am screwed again for some reason....removing the REAR drivers side tire/rim today and four lug nuts loosened up easily....the fifth did not, but after a little force the fifth nut started to spin....but now it continues to spin and not come off. That means the threaded stud within is spinning endlessly.....what to do? How do we get at that stud and anchor it?
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Do you have any play at all? If so, you can get on the nut with a long breaker bar & socket and work it side to side until it breaks. Then just replace the broken stud.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
nashville68bird.....If the stud is turning with the nut, it's no good anyway. Cut the stud off, and replace it and the nut. You may need a stud with an oversize sholder if the hole in the hub is enlarged. Put the new stud in from the back. Put a couple big washers on the stud in front and pull it into place with the lugnut on backwards......John
It's tricky with the wheel still on. You don't want to screw up the finish. But try taking a cutoff wheel and making an X cut in the top of the lugnut until you get to the stud, then you have to use a cold chisel and start peeling the lugnut back. You may not have to get it all the way as it will start to loosen up while you do this.
Concur with the cutoff wheel option. Had a similar problem many years ago and ended up cutting one slot as close to the wheel as I could get. I was limited by the position of the cutoff wheel to make only one good cut. Then busted the nut out with a chisel.
The other option if you truly believe you have broken the lug nut loose is to put a standard wrench on the lug nut and clamp a large vice grip on the stud. Then turn the stud with the vice grip. Once you get the lug nut most to the way off, put the vice grip on the back side of the stud. You'll need to be careful to prevent scraping the wheel though.
I had the same problem a few years back with some new lugnuts gauling the threads. But I was lucky enough to be working with a c clip rear end. I just pulled the diff pin and slid the axle out. From there I ground the head off.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
Isn't it Buicks one sells at the toilet after a hard nite of drinking!
I would perhaps replace all the studs to be on the safe side. I had the same sort of issue with my F150 and the other ones were stressed as well from the 2 broken studs. I knew that because I replaced two broken ones , tightened up the remaining ones and two more snapped off! Never had that happen before, and it has 6 studs!
No easy fix C-clip on my bird, had to cut out and break down the one Rally nut that was spinning, and did it tonight with relative ease.
Man, those aftermarket Rally lug nuts have our lives in their hands, but they are pretty soft aluminum, trust me.
Had a complete set of rear studs on the shelf, so should be back out on the road "scaring women, horses and children" by tomorrow night. Thanks to all as always for the advice and posts.
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Using a Camaro lug nut to get by for now. If Anyone has a Firebird Ralley Wheel nut (black insert) on the shelf and can drop it in an envelope for me it would be appreciated, and I'll mail you back a few bucks, or let me know what small part you need in return:
John Alvey 882 Countrywood Drive Adams, TN 37010
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
Dave from Canada sent me the perfect replacement lug nut for our 1968 Birds. Thank you very much Dave! Hmmmm...now what to send him back as a thanks? Hillary Blow-Up Doll?
'68 428 HO M3 Monster, 4-on-the-floor! Need I say more?
I'm somewhat concerned about these aftermarket rally nuts. I repaired one stud a few weeks back that had cross threaded coming OFF and had to pull a wheel yesterday and another one cross threaded coming off and I know they were on straight and torqued to 100 ft pounds. I think the metal is too soft.
I also found nuts loosening up and now check em regularly...
are there more than one manufacturer?
I cant recall where I got this set from...think it was classic
Last edited by Dave's White Rock '68 Droptop; 06/13/1106:36 PM.
Originally Posted By Dave's White Rock '68 Droptop
I'm somewhat concerned about these aftermarket rally nuts. I repaired one stud a few weeks back that had cross threaded coming OFF and had to pull a wheel yesterday and another one cross threaded coming off and I know they were on straight and torqued to 100 ft pounds. I think the metal is too soft.
I also found nuts loosening up and now check em regularly...
are there more than one manufacturer?
I cant recall where I got this set from...think it was classic
If the metal in the nut was weak then why does the stud fail and not the nut?
Engine Test Stand Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwoxyUwptUcdqEb-o2ArqyiUaHW0G_C88 restoring my 1968 Firebird 400 HO convertible (Firedawg) 1965 Pontiac Catalina Safari Wagon 389 TriPower (Catwagon) 1999 JD AWS LX Lawn tractor 17hp (my daily driver) 2006 Sequoia 2017 Murano (wife's car) 202? Electric car 203? 68 Firebird /w electric engine 2007 Bayliner 175 runabout /w 3.0L Mercuiser__________________________________________________________
Seems the threads on the nut deform when its torqued on, then cross thread on the way out. I use a standard lug nut to pull the studs thru and have really put torque on them in some instances and they are just fine.
I see a lot of metal on the threads on the nuts when they come off and the threads look soft/worn. The stud threads seem crisp and untouched.
Originally Posted By Dave's White Rock '68 Droptop
are there more than one manufacturer?
I cant recall where I got this set from...think it was classic
I bought my set from Terry back in '07. I haven't had any issues like that. I've had my wheels off-on a couple of times since then. No idea on MFR. though.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I got 3 from Ames to replace the bad ones (one I sent to Nash) so will see how it goes with them. May replace them all once I have confirmed quality. Pretty sure I got the others off Ebay, so no idea where they originated.
Off to Penticton next week for the Beach Cruise Show, so will be checking them regularly.....its a winding road up!
Last edited by Dave's White Rock '68 Droptop; 06/15/1106:01 PM.
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I'll send him a note on FB right now....
