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#229116 06/07/11 12:38 PM
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I'm installing a Warpath RA set up on my 68 and I'm just not sure about the upper foam installation. I'm guessing you stick it to the upper pan and not the hood? Also, a pic to show exactly where it lays would be great. I did some searching with no luck (dead links to pics).

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I used weatherstip adhesive to glue it to the top side of the upper pan. Then the pan is screwed to the hood.
Here's a pic

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Thanks! What I really need to see is the topside of the upper pan Where the foam is. There are some contours in the stamped pan and thats where Im not sure where the foam is supposed to go.

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Here it is when I was laying it out.

At a glance it looks obvious but there are some corners in the front around the scoop posts holes that I'm not sure how/if it should follow. A pic like this of the foam installed properly would probably tell it all.

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Originally Posted By colorado68
I used weatherstip adhesive to glue it to the top side of the upper pan. Then the pan is screwed to the hood.
Here's a pic


Hey, as a favor - could you post some close-ups of the upper pan mounted on your hood in your photo album? Then I could "steal" them for my reference files. I found out a couple of weeks ago my old reference photos were low resoltion and I can't blow them up to see details.

Thanks.


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Originally Posted By quick68bird
Here it is when I was laying it out.

At a glance it looks obvious but there are some corners in the front around the scoop posts holes that I'm not sure how/if it should follow. A pic like this of the foam installed properly would probably tell it all.


Just curious - did you find that you absolutely HAD to trim the underside of the hood for the upper pan to fit?


2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement
2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered.
2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it)
Old projects, gone but not forgotten:
1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it.
1980 Turbo Trans Am
1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto
1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed
1983 F-150 4x4, built 302
1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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Originally Posted By salmon38
Originally Posted By quick68bird
Here it is when I was laying it out.

At a glance it looks obvious but there are some corners in the front around the scoop posts holes that I'm not sure how/if it should follow. A pic like this of the foam installed properly would probably tell it all.


Just curious - did you find that you absolutely HAD to trim the underside of the hood for the upper pan to fit?


Yes, otherwise the hood frame interferes with the foam not allowing for a good seal.
Here are a couple pictures



Also posted a few more in the "stuff" album: http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii106/colorado68/stuff/
Note.. I did have to cut a little foam by the passenger side scoop so it had a clean look from the outside. You also want to make sure you leave room to access the hood emblem nuts.
Hope this helps.

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Thats great. Thanks a bunch.


2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement
2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered.
2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it)
Old projects, gone but not forgotten:
1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it.
1980 Turbo Trans Am
1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto
1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed
1983 F-150 4x4, built 302
1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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What do those after market R/A pan set ups set you back? You are limited to stock manifolds right? I was stumped about fitment so I had my engine builder/machine and fabrication shop build my ram-air pans to match my hood height with the RPM Performer and spacer to get the flow #s right where functional Ram-Air was a requirement for our contract under a repopped steel T/A hood as provided to them. That little touch was an additional $600 on top of the $6800 I paid to get the 468 Stroker built where we have torque @ 563 and climbing below 4000Rpm and accurate HP of 520 @ 5300Rpm with 670 heads and stock repopped high flow long branch exhaust. It keeps things looking lightly modified and shiney but very stock indeed. Looks like a young man's love of chrome modified - stock engine... wink

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These aftermarket RA kits we are most using come from Warpath Restorations and run about $600.

Since they run close to stock dimensions we have to stick with a close to stock height intake manifold. An E-brock Performer will work but not a Performer RPM.


2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement
2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered.
2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it)
Old projects, gone but not forgotten:
1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it.
1980 Turbo Trans Am
1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto
1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed
1983 F-150 4x4, built 302
1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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I finally got mine all installed, sorry for the late follow up. I found it necessary to cut my underbracing as well, per the original PMD directions. My pan actually made contact in the front right corner not allowing it to sit flush. Talk about nerve-racking, cutting on the hood. I used a dremel tool for this with a little cut-off wheel.
Once I could trial fit the hood pan I looked at the pan from the outside of the hood with the scoops removed and also at Colorado's pics (thanks) and decided to go ahead and glue the foam to the pan and reinstall. I too had to trim just a little bit of foam on the pass side just inside the scoop. Using a chip brush I dabbeded some flat black where I cut the foam and you couldn't tell a thing.
Both the upper and lower foam that came with the kit is a pretty dense foam. Since I am running a Torker II which is higher than the stock maanifold I had to do something different as that foam just did not allow the hood to close and sit properly. I installed the lower pan and placed 4 balls of aluminum foil where the foam goes. I learned that it is a slope from front to back with 3/8” at the front and 1” at the back. I ended up using some 1 ¼” strip foam from the hardware store that is much more forgiving and collapses easily. This worked great as the hood sits like it should and the R/A is completely sealed.
I then learned that the repop open scoops from PY did not fit right. The posts were located too far forward so the scoop wanted to set rearward, about 1/8”. So instead of hogging out the V slot in my hood where the posts fit I decided to open up my original scoop. That was a nerve-racking job as well as they were painted but the trusty dremel tool worked again.
This was all done in a thrash as I was prepping to go to the Pontiac Southern Nationals which I just made it. Judging place me in the 67-81 modified f-body class and I scored a bronze award. Lots of beautiful birds there and a few of the other first gens had ram air too!



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Does anyone have any of the original photos which were contained in this thread? I am in the process of mounting my upper Ram Air pan, and I am looking for visual guidance on the hood brace cut locations, as well as the foam attachment location for the upper pan and the screw hole locations for the upper pan. Unfortunately all of the photos that were once uploaded for this thread are not visible anymore. Hoping someone has them available.

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Hi,
Good job! smile
I have 68 FIrebird 400ci engine and I would like to check if I have a Ram Air option on it but I don't know where vacum air is plugged on engine. Could you send a picture of it, please?
Sorry for my english because I am french guy wink
Thx


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