Like me, the old Firebird seems to sagging in the rear a little more and more the last year or so. With funds being a little tight I'm considering either replacing the leaf springs or using a set of helper springs. The ride is fine, just need to gain back about an inch of tire clearance. Has anyone used a set of helper springs that worked or would that just be a waste of money?
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
New springs is the right thing to do. I would just wait and save and keep saving so you can do it right the first time. Why put x amount of money into air bags,helper springs or whatever just to end up replacing the springs eventually anyways ?
"New springs is the right thing to do. I would just wait and save and keep saving so you can do it right the first time. Why put x amount of money into air bags,helper springs or whatever just to end up replacing the springs eventually anyways ?"
There ya go...
Last edited by Bronze Bird; 03/10/1202:23 PM.
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
New springs don't cost a whole lot more that a set of air shocks or helper springs anyway.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Helper springs will work, but you'll be able to see them from behind. Not sure if that's something that would bother you or not.
Air shocks work. They were an accessory option on all Pontiacs. They don't require additional strengthening of the shock plates or upper mounting points. They have a rougher ride than regular shocks.
Because I change wheels often, going from same-size Rally II's to a set of redlines with Rally II's, and also a set of slicks with smaller pizza cutter tires up front, I run air shocks so I can keep the car level.
New springs are the way to go. But because of the one-size-fits-all replacement springs out there, you run the risk of getting springs that will have your car sitting 3 inches too high in back.
But yes, new springs are the ultimate solution. Getting the correct ride height (and stance) is the tough part.
I've done the air shocks and shackle thing in the past. Don't think shackles would even fit behind the valance panel, and air shocks, well, I might as well just use a steel pipe. (Had them on my Challenger and hated them.) But, as was mentioned, getting the right springs with the correct ride height is also an issue, as well as the cost. I've found the Detroit Eaton springs for about $300 with shipping, and the helper springs look be be around $60 to $75. So a big difference in price (as well as installation time.) Really didn't want to replace springs if I didn't have to. (But considering the cost of gas, I may be spending more time working on the car than driving it!)
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!
I got a set of springs from an E-bay seller in IL last spring (had a broken leaf on one of the originals) for $125.00 . Guess I got lucky because the ride height is right on.
Only problem is that the new springs were made in china. I didn't realize that until I had them. I like to buy "made in USA" when I can.
Yea, think I have several "made in China" parts on my car already. I know I can get new springs locally for less money but I'm concerned about getting the ride height where I want it. I could get them re-curved but that's a lot of work to install them multiple times.
-=>Lee<=- Due to budget constraints the "light at the end of the tunnel" has been turned off!