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Joined: Mar 2006
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Hi, i was plannng on changing the floor and the rocker panel (that the reason for the new post). Took the car apart, subframe and the rest. The project will change because the toe panel and the subframe mount are rotted. These part with delivery cost near the price of a complete firewall. I'm wondering how big of a job is to replace the firewall and what need to be remove to do the job.

thank you

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Be careful. I took my 68 coupe apart and found I did not have much left. It was just a 68 350 2sp so not worth doing that much steel to save it. Instead I bought a vert with great pedigree and a lot less work to do.


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No money to change project but i have so time to fix.

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i didnt do the firewall, but everything else . i used a 3/8 spot weld cutter. cut all the spot welds, then ground off the nubs left on metal. Once you get used to doing it , its easy just takes time. I used a blair spot weld bit, used 8 bits they are double sided.
Just take your time, and use vice grips to make sure its lined up.Then screw it in place,once your absolutly sure its lined up correctly, spot weld in a few places. Then check it again to be sure everything lines up.
i started with 4 pair of vice grips at the start. By the time i was completed i had 60 pair of various sizes! lol every time i saw vicegrips at a yard sale , bought them.

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I would take out as little as possible. I am currently putting a new floor in and i had a very small rectangle patch for an overlap in the firewall to floor area that needed to be replaced 2" by 6" (where the seam from floor to firewall). That small patch is a lot of work if you plan on hiding all the weld lines (grinding smooth). Depends what kind of restoration level you are doing.

Structurally you need to brace the car very well especially if you start repair/replacing "A" & "B" pillar sections There will be nothing holding the rest in place.


1969 Firebird conv't A/C 400 4-Speed
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Firewall on the way. I will brace the car from the interior. No money for a jig. The car is a streeter not a show car. The project for now will be the firewall and the full floor. Will see what goes on for next year after the summer. How many brace should i put inside the car before removing firewall

thank you

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Coupe or vert?

If A vert, I braced across the doors front to back, and side to side for the body. Since I also have a full quarter off the car, I also ran a brace down to the B pillar to strengthen and attached it to the square on the side the quarter is removed. Excuse the ugly welds.

Coupe may not need as much. More is better where possible.




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thank you
bracing might start this weekend
DSC05695.JPG

Last edited by patvac; 04/17/12 02:16 AM.
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I will echo 4dabird's comment. "Take out as little as possible." My opinion is that you should NOT change out the entire firewall. That's great you bought one...you needed it, and you can now cut it apart and use it for patches. It is FAR easier to install patches than it is to do an entire firewall. None of your dimensions will move, bracing can be less complicated, and your repair will be just as good as a full replacement, and you'll maintain much of the original sheetmetal.

Based on your photo, it appears that 80%+ of your firewall is rust-free. For this reason, I see no reason to replace more than the 20% of it that is rotted...which is probably just the lower ends near the subframe mounts.

Just my opinion. When it comes to large structural componant replacment, sometimes less is more...

I feel the same way about the floor. Cut out patches of rotted metal, use smart techniques for butt-welding nice and smooth if you're concoursing it...or just lap weld and seamseal for a driver...and you can leave the rest of the non-rusted original floor in place. Patching is FAR FAR easier to fit than complete panels are...particularly when you're dealing with resto parts that are FAR from perfect...as you'll soon find out.

However you tackle it, enjoy it!

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Sound advice.

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Nothing to save here. The floor has been patch a lot with rivits and sheet of metal. I can't repair by patch nothing is good on the floor

I made my self a small support instead of supporting in the corner I have inserted wood dowels. I know wood is not metal but this i what i can affort for now.

I brace the car in front and in the back of the doors. Is that enough or i should brace from side to side

Any other things should be done before i remove the left over from the floor?


than you
DSC05701.JPG DSC05697.JPG DSC05698.JPG

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It's amazing people actually do that to the floor. How is that ok? Bunch of hacks worked on mine and now I have to fix it.


1969 Firebird conv't A/C 400 4-Speed
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What a job and the firewall is back order so i will have to go with toe pan (board) and order a torque box for the subframe screw.


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