I'm no expert but these are just my observations.


"Must Haves"

- 700R4 Transmission (I bought a junker and had it rebuilt - total parts and labor were around $850
- Adapter plate to allow bolting tranny to Pontiac engine #TC560
-Torque Converter (mine is a stock stall w/lockup)
- 3 gallons or so of transmission fluid
- Transmission crossmember - THIS one is awesome. The one problem is that you need to lengthen the two holes in the middle of the member by a 1/2" or so. (Lengthen them towards the back side of the car.) The holes are too short because of the Pontiac-to-GM adapter plate.
- Transmission mount (comes with the crossmember)
- GM Throttle Valve (TV) cable
- Console shifter mod kit Part #SC2262
- Trans shifter cable GM cable #498467 C101
- TV Cable bracket (near the carb)
- Carb "cam" (like a bell crank)
- Optional: Instead of the above TWO items you could get a TV Made EZ system (as long as they make one for your carb/fuel injection.) In retrospect I SHOULD have done this!
- Shorter drive shaft
- New Universal joints
- New trans Dip stick and tube
- Lockup wiring materials and diagram


"Good to Haves"

- Transgo Shift Kit - this kit is not for firming shifts it is basically a durability enhancer.
- Transmission Cooler (almost a must have even if you have a built-in radiator cooler)
- Correct speedo gears (that you've been putting off)


"Fun to Haves"

2nd gear and 4th gear servos


Notes:

The lockup definitely works on mine. It makes the car feel like a standard shift while it is locked-up. Bowtie Overdrives state that you shouldn't have the car shifting while the converter is locked. For now I have full manual lockup so I have to be careful of shifting situations. Later I will have have another switch position on my lockup switch for automatic lock-up in 4th and unlock in lower gears or under braking.

Up above I have the console shifter mod kit as a "Must Have." I'm not convinced of that. Right now I don't have to push down on the T-handle to shift into any gear. The shifting action is firm and I'm quite careful so I'm not in danger of shifting into reverse by mistake. I do like having the correct PRNDD21 indicator plate though. (You can buy those separately.)

I did lots and lots of reading on the adjustment of the TV cable. I can't stress enough how important establishing the proper relationship bewtween throttle movement and TV cable movement is. If your TV cable is not adjusted right even if it is off by an 1/8" in travel, maybe even less, your 700R4 will not shift right. If you EVER find yourself in 4th gear by 30 MPH (short-shifting) pull over immediately and try to adjust the cable. Many web sites state that you can ruin the transmission in ONE MILE if you leave it in this short-shifting state.

If you get a junker 700R4, buy one that was manufactured in 1988 or later.

The 700R4 is NOT computer controlled.

Consider buying a 2004R transmission too. The swap may be easier and the gearing is a tad different. (2nd is a litttle shorter and 4th is a little taller.)

25 Feb 2005: The 2nd and 4th gear servos are in. I don't feel much of a difference in the 4th gear servo but the 2nd gear servo is ! The apply is very firm and positive. At WOT it'll chirp a tire going into 2nd. Update: After the transmission warms up the shift isn't quite as firm. That's good.

8 May 2005: I decided to test the highway mileage on the car. I filled the car up to the LAST drop, drove a mild 70 mph with a light foot and then filled the car up with 4.16 gallons of gas. Result 22.8 MPG! Not bad for a "gas guzzler."

That is excelent information. Im sure I wont be able to find it when I'm ready to do this

Thanks rohrt, I'll keep updating it between fixing leaks.

Update - I just took the tranny on it's first long trip. It looks like I got 17+ mpg and that was MOVING along at 80++ mph. 2.78 rear end and 2200 rpm at 90 mph is awesome!

(Closed course. Do not attempt this on public roads.) :p

I run the 200r4 from Bowtie Overdrive and the benefit over the 700r4 for me was I didn't need a adapter for the bellhousing and I didn't have to shorten/replace the driveline. That was with a 2 spd ST-300 and not a TH400 though. I'm not sure if you would have to swap out the tranny yoke. Plus the 200r4 was a little cheaper than the 700r4. The 1st to 2nd gear ratio is a little closer to.

The yoke is the same.

Yep, the 2004R is a great alternative to the 700R4.

Update:

8 May 2005: I decided to test the highway mileage on the car. I filled the car up to the LAST drop, drove a mild 70 mph with a light foot and then filled the car up with 4.16 gallons of gas. Result 22.8 MPG! Not bad for a "gas guzzler."

2200 rpm at 90 mph

wow, i need a OD tranny!

I had Cliff Ruggles rebuild my carb, when I got it back my MPG averaged 17 MPG running about 80 most of the time. TH-350 and 2.96 rear, can't tell you RPMs as my tach is a little screwy.

I have messed around with the idea of an OD trans. How well do they hold up to high HP (400 or so) in a street/strip car?

My choice in rear gear+ overdrive puts me slightly below stock RPM w/ the 200-4r and gives lots of torque on the bottom for my little I6 (3.23 to 4.11 +OD). Add the oversized rear tire and it puts me about on par w/ a 2.80 rear gear. I think you lose a little more efficiency with the OD vs. a tall rear gear though, but the trade off is worth it for me.

For extremely high torque applications i've heard that the 4L80E or a GearVendors is the way to go, as both the 200 and 700 are weak for low end torque in big #s.

GM dropped the 4L60E (700r4) in favor of the 4L80E (th400 w/ OD) in their HD truck applications because of problems. The 4L80E is computer controlled, so you would need an ECU or a manual shift version... big $$.

http://www.chevellestuff.com/generic/rpm_calculator.htm
says you should be running ~3100rpm@80mph depending on tire size and converter slippage.

If I ever build a street rod, it will probably have a GearVendors in it.

1500 rpm at 55 mph. I'm still wondering what I could get for mileage if I really grannied the car. Then again, I don't think I'm up to going 58 in a 65 mph zone for 100 miles.

Im installing my 700r4 right now
Did you have to adjust the firewall? The servo is very close to trans tunnel, did you adjust yours?
And did you reuse the origional torque converter bolts, or buy longer ones, because of the spacers?
Thanks

I didn't do the install, but on my car:

The firewall did not need adjusting even with my GM HEI ignition.

The servo is close but it clears on mine.

I'm not sure about the torque converter bolts but the installer didn't mention swapping them.

Are you going ahead and making it a lock-up torque converter? If not, you may have heat issues.

I hope I've helped a little. BEST OF LUCK! You won't believe how much slower your engine will run in OD!

I took my trans to the local shop and he installed something that uses the line pressure, not a 12 volt signal to lock up the converter, hope it works.
I think the servo will be fine and not hit the tunnel
And the part that I cant wait for is how much faster the car will be in 1st gear, I had a powerglide

This post is just for reference. You can compare the 1st gear of the 700/200 OD transmissions with a TH350. Then, you can compare the the 4th gears of the 700/200 with the 3rd (and highest gear) of the TH350.

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/leadfoot/trans.htm

(A higher number means a shorter gear)

700-R4: 3.06 (1st gear) * 2.78 (rear end) = 8.5068
700-R4: 3.06 * 3.23 = 9.8838
700-R4: 3.06 * 3.55 = 10.863

200-4R: 2.74 * 2.78 = 7.612
200-4R: 2.74 * 3.23 = 8.8502
200-4R: 2.74 * 3.55 = 9.727

TH350: 2.52 * 2.78 = 7.0056
TH350: 2.52 * 3.23 = 8.1396
TH350: 2.52 * 3.55 = 8.946


(A lower number means a taller gear:)

700-R4: .70 (4th gear) * 2.78 (rear end) = 1.946
700-R4: .70 * 3.23 = 2.261
700-R4: .70 * 3.55 = 2.485

200-4R: .67 * 2.78 = 1.862
200-4R: .67 * 3.23 = 2.164
200-4R: .67 * 3.55 = 2.378

TH350: 1.00 (3rd gear) * 2.78 = 2.78
TH350: 1.00 * 3.23 = 3.23
TH350: 1.00 * 3.55 = 3.55

Gas prices are up - Get an OD tranny!!!!

Update:

I had the tranny rebuilt. $1770 at http://www.briscoetrans.com

Yes, it was a lot of money but when I looked at the quality of service, attention to detail, guarantee etc - I'm probably saving money compared to just swapping-in a TCI.

I would recommend Briscoe to anyone. He says my tranny failed after two years because the previous rebuilder had 5 clutches in it instead of 6. Whoa. Crap.

I had him replace the too-stout TCI 2nd gear servo with a more normal Corvettte servo. He also recommend a stouter star shell and his "Torque Bully" planetary. He swapped my torque convertor one that I suspect has a slightly higher stall speed. (Especially in reverse oddly enough.)

My lock-up was never quite right so he's going to put in http://www.ronfrancis.com/transmissionaccessories.htm part # TC-70. It's an adjustable lock-up point. Briscoe says that if I had a different valve body he could set my lock-up point with a calibrated hole drilled in just the right location.

With my 2.78s if I lock-up right away in 4th it'll lug the engine. So I'm hoping to lock-up at around 55 mph.

I have the 'stage 3' th200r4 from bowtie overdrives..

good for up to 600 HP....

works like a charm.. -especially with a hurst shifter... -there really IS difference compared to stock shifter-conversions..

Yep - I'm a fan of the 2004R too. Bowtieoverdrives is a great company.

I run a Stage II from Bowtieoverdrive and it's great.