My firebird has the non power disc brakes and I am wondering what I would gain by changing to power? The motor I am building is a 71 400 win 16 heads. I am using speed pro forged prisons. Shooting for around 10:1 compression. The car doesn't have much need for vacuum alowing me more cam choices. I know im going to run vacuum advance. Is there an option to upgrade the brakes to get better stopping without switching to power brakes.
Use a booster. I am planning on putting one on my car when I get to that point, as I have the front -non power disc as well. It's fairly cheap, and relatively easy from what I hear.
Others that have done this are on the site, and maybe one of them will chime in.
Cant wait for summer... 68HO4004spvert Sleddog Iowa
God Bless the men and women past and present that have served this country. Thank you. Support D.A.V. - it helps gives a life back to those who gave so much for us.....
I would say the best and easiest way to improve your braking is to switch to a power master cylinder and booster. You may have to change the position of where the push rod attaches to the pedal but not sure.
If adding a booster, brake lines need to be swapped out too. With the booster in place, the manual lines cannot reach the repositioned MC.
But overall a great and fairly easy swap. Have done three or four of them now. Definetly helps with drums at all four corners.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
