Ok. 1967 400 car. Total resto project- just finishing up, and having a problem that is absolutely killing me- the alternator simply won't "switch on" and create current. It's a new alternator, the factory harness is in great shape, the car runs and drives as normal, all gauges work, etc. I simply cannot get the car to charge the battery whatsoever. Also note, I've tried 3 different voltage regs. 2 of which are brand new. Still No luck!

Additional info:

1. I know what you're thinking. Bad ground. And in most cases you'd be right. Before you read on, please be aware that yes, i have checked, rechecked, and triple checked all grounds and each of the individual wiring for poor or incorrect connection. Something else is going on here.
2. Brand new reman alternator checked out fine on the tester. Granted yes, it's Oreilley's but I watched the test 3 times with my own eyes, and each time it passed.
3. According to the standard '67 wiring diagram that is sold everywhere, the pinout on the 4 pole Voltage Regulator is as follows: 1. (F) Field, blue wire. 2. Armature wire, black/white. 3. Red, 12v straight to the junction block. 4. Accessory circuit, straight to the fuse box- This wire also hits the back of the idiot lamp.

Results of voltmeter probing:

1. Static battery voltage 11.68v
2. Continuity between blue wire at terminal 1 of the voltage reg and the blue wire at alternator 2 pin plug.
3. Continuity between black/white wire at terminal 2 of the voltage reg and black/white at alternator 2 pin plug.
4. Pin 3 at regulator harness reads 11. 68v at all times. Aka "constant hot".
5. Pin 4 at regulator harness reads 11.68v and it turns on and off with accessory/key.
6. 12v lug on alternator tests continuous with 12v battery terminal.
7. Ground lug on alternator tests continuous with ground on chassis.

Indications: All wires test exactly as shown in the diagram, as they should. The alternator will just not create voltage increase. Is there a way to test the alternator's output on the car, while running? Can I jump a wire to another wire and see if the [censored] alternator will even make power?

I have seen another "Delcotron" diagram that seems to show a slightly different pinout. They say that the #4 pin should flow through a resistance wire from the ignition circuit. I see no such resistance wire in my factory harness?? What's that all about? It's also not shown in the wiring diagram that everyone sells for the 67's online.

I REALLY need help on this one guys...I spent 15 years as a master 12v alarm installer- and this one has me by the @#$lls I'm afraid.......

Try swapping out the battery. You may have a dead cell the alternator will not charge it. Make sure your battery is wired correctly to the rad support wiring block (+) and the (-) wire from post to fender, connection to engine block (GRD) and connection to starter (POS).

with the engine running you can toutch the rear bearing housing on the back of the alternator with a screwdriver to see if it's creating a magnetic field. Did you try your tests for power at the regulator with all wires hooked up and the engine running? Your dvom is invisible to the circuit so maybe under operating conditions a connection is failing when it actually has to do its job. Just grasping at straws here, good luck. Neill

Gon'a have to test for power in the circuit from alternator the battery.

Seems like I remember the resistance needed is provided not by a wire, but by the Gen/Alt/Bat Lamp in the gauges. Replace yours and check the gauge grounds. Let us know if that works.

Well I'm no top gun but I'd say your wiring from the regulator to the alternator is correct. A couple of thoughts:
Are you testing the alternator output at the B terminal on the alternator with a voltmeter? If you're testing the voltage across the battery terminals you may not get alternator output voltage just battery voltage and as Gus says, your battery may be defective;
The number 4 terminal of the regulator turns the system off and on via the ignition switch through the idiot light. Number 3 terminal is voltage sensing terminal, it senses the voltage in the system via the main buss junction (sometimes right from the alternator B terminal) If the voltage at the sensing terminal #3 is below 14 volts the regulator powers up the number F terminal and the field voltage is increased increasing the magnetic field and thus output. You could full-field the alternator by temporarily (very temporary)jumping a wire from battery voltage to the F terminal on the alternator and test for high output;
Perhaps the alternator is putting out 14 volts and your voltmeter is defective;
The resistor in the circuit is parallel with the idiot light, sometimes it runs all the way to the regulator number 4 with the idiot light wire, and sometimes it junctions the turn on wire downstream from the idiot light;
Some voltage regulators have a ground wire which grounds at the mounting bolt;
At what voltage did the alternator test to at the parts store?

Of course these are just my thoughts and I could be wrong, I'm not an expert.

Oh yeah, the idiot light comes on when there is a voltage differential it can come on when the voltage at A side of the light is higher than the voltage B side, it can also come on when the A voltage is lower than B

Ugbandtulsa, did you ever get your alternator working, if so what was the prob.?

Needs a battery first, 11.68 volts is a completely discharged battery.